Life in the USA 2002-2003

1 Jan 2002–22 Dec 2003 | Alameda, California / North America
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Photos on the map
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A continuation of the oddities and utterly trivial experiences from life in the USA.

Almost every Tuesday we go to that Irish pub where the Czechs hang out. The other day I come in and since everybody there talks to everybody, I start chatting right by the door with some guy. He tells me how he taught programming at the engineering school in Prague, we immediately agreed that he must have taught some of my classmates, and we're just jabbering away. After a while Jeff showed up, who'd been chatting up some Czech girls in the meantime, and Adam (the guy from the engineering school) immediately struck up a conversation with him in absolutely perfect American English. So I ask him how long he's been here that he speaks English so well. And he tells me he's American. That made me laugh and I say, sure, you're one of those Americans from Vysočany, right? :)). Well, it took him quite a while to convince me that he really is a regular American and that he learned Czech well enough to fool me in the three years he spent in Bohemia! I was shaking my head over it all evening.
Yesterday we were in the park on our bikes and ran into him there with some girl who stared like a stunned owl when we started talking in a language that sounded like Mongolian to her:).

An acquaintance of mine (Rae, since she'll come up again) told me the other day an unbelievable story straight out of the chronicles of the town of Kocourkov. She lived in San Diego and there she is one evening, sitting in her own garden drinking a beer. The cops rolled up and she's thinking, what do the boys want now. I won't drag it out, they fined her for drinking beer!!!!! Not only is it forbidden to drink alcohol in public, but on top of that not even in a spot that's visible from public places! So unless you've got a three-metre fence ringed with barbed wire (what if somebody happened to be climbing over that fence and saw the beer!), you're not allowed to drink any alcohol in your own garden!!!!
When I heard this story, I thought nothing worse was possible. While I was shaking my head over it, she threw in two more similar stories for Kocourkov.

Another time Rae is at home again and suddenly some woman rings the bell.
Neighbour: „Hello, I'm your neighbour and I came to ask whether any of these colours bothers you.“ And she was holding a colour chart.
Rae: „Why on earth would those colours bother me? What business is it of mine?“
Neighbour: „Well, I'm going to paint my house and it's visible from your place.“
Rae: „Good grief, it's your house, paint it pink if you like, I couldn't care less!“
Neighbour: „Yes, but under law such and such I have to have a signature from all the neighbours whose property my house is visible from, saying the new colour doesn't bother them. Could you sign it for me here?“

When Rae got an official letter from the City Hall saying she was breaking law such and such, under which all the bins on her property have to be the same colour and from the same manufacturer, and on top of that mustn't differ too much from the bins of her nearest neighbours, the mug overflowed. She sold the house, her company, and moved to a tiny village on the edge of Joshua Tree National Park, basically right into the desert, where the idiotic laws hadn't reached yet.
Back then, that is. Apparently, not long ago they passed a law even in this new place that everyone may only keep vehicles in their garden that are roadworthy and have valid plates... Rae is already slowly looking for the next place to escape to....

After the success of my first „business“ trip to an auction, where I bought the computers and servers I needed for about a third of their real price, I was sent to another one, this time officially. I had a shopping list (25 computers, 23 monitors, a hub, a switch, a projector, 3 colour laser printers etc...) Surprisingly, I managed to buy everything. The funny part was when 20 computers came up for sale and nobody was in much of a hurry to bid, because it was obvious that out of twenty there'd be one for everybody. So I bid the highest and they ask me how many I want. They didn't expect the kid in a T-shirt and dirty jeans to want more than one, and whoops. The kid bought them all:).
Then various folks kept coming up to me asking whether I really needed all 20 and whether I'd sell one of them on:). I wouldn't. I bought $19,000 worth of stuff (a good three quarters of a million crowns) and I felt terribly important. The laughter stopped when it hit me that I also had to pick it all up, load it into a car and deliver it to the right places.

I did have a car for it, and that was the shock of this morning. I flew into Los Angeles and had a car reserved with Hertz (car rental). It was supposed to be a minivan, but it's hard to cram 25 computers into a minivan, especially with 23 17-inch monitors. So they'd lend me a „normal“ van instead. And me, guilelessly, sure, why not. Just like last time with the limousine. I walk up to it and I'm gasping again. It was a van all right, but the size of a bus and for 17 people! Unfortunately, idiot me didn't bring a camera, so I have no documentation of it. For the first time in my life I had to jump down from the seat when getting out, and it was quite a deep drop:). Also for the first time in my life I was looking into truckers' cabs and not just up their nostrils, like from a regular car.
Luckily I got hold of one of my helpers (I have one „subordinate“ in every building) and the next day the two of us hauled and delivered everything.
Before I flew home on Friday. I also gave him the task of setting up all those computers on the appropriate desks, and I'd fly in afterwards and just install everything. I naively thought two days would be enough for that. Yesterday I came back after a week of installing and next week I have to go there once more...
But let me not get ahead of myself, one thing at a time. So on Friday we delivered everything and I flew home for the weekend. On Monday I was supposed to fly back, so in the morning I asked Mary to book me a ticket for noon and started tinkering with something. Luckily it's just a short hop from the office to the airport, so when I finally tore myself away it was 11:45, our finance director threw me into his Landcruiser and I still made it.
In Los Angeles I had a car booked again, this time a full-size car, i.e. „full-fat“. The girl says the full-fat ones are gone, so they'll give me a premium for the same price. I pictured another ocean liner in which I'd look like a grandpa on his way to see the grandkids, and besides, I thought to myself, I'm going to the desert! So I cheekily asked whether they had any off-roaders and the girl said yes. So I picked (and boy, did I do well) a Jeep. I walk up to it, a 3-month-old Jeep Grand Cherokee, 2000 miles on the clock, a car worth a good 2.5 million crowns!
So I get in and head onto the highway and at that moment I was gripped by an unconquerable feeling of importance, pride, success or whatever, driving around America in this car where everything is electronic and leather and smart.... I had to rein myself in. The car isn't mine, they still pay me next to nothing (the visa still hasn't come) and I live in an old flat with a bunch of other people so that we can pay the rent, so what success are we talking about.
Back to that Jeep, which I still miss. I had it on loan for a whole week and ever since then every other car feels like a mangy tin can. It had computer-controlled 4x4 drive, so when you hit the gas or the brake in a corner on a lousy surface, the computer distributes the power to the wheels so the car doesn't go into a skid and the engine's power is used to the max. Of course the driver doesn't even notice. A CD player, a tape deck and a radio, and with eight speakers it rattled the windows of the nearest houses. The engine, a V8, 5.2 litres, 380 horses, ate like a herd of 380 horses. Especially off-road. Oh well, I'm not paying for it, right... Loads of silly things, like the lights coming on when it gets dark, + and – buttons on the steering wheel (that's when you get bored of pressing the gas on the highway, you set your cruising speed and then just adjust it with the buttons) and so on.
Since one of the hospitals is in the desert, I set off straight away to install some computers there, so that in the afternoons I could head out into the desert and compare the Jeep with the Patrol I used to plough through the Sahara in Libya. It was like comparing water and sand. No matter what I did, bouncing over rocks, scrambling up cliffs, jumping over dunes, inside the Jeep it was still as quiet and comfy as on the sofa in your living room. You'd expect that if you get a two-and-a-half-tonne colossus up to 80 on bumpy sand and then yank the wheel with all your might and slam the brake, you might, like, get into a skid. Not a chance. I never managed to throw it off balance, it always stopped, turned or pulled away as if I were driving home from dance class on a dry road. At one point I thought I'd finally got it, when I was climbing a sandy rock with it and it simply wouldn't go any further. So I stopped to take a photo of it in that faux-paux situation. I carefully put on the brake and got out. I shouldn't have done that. Not that the car rolled off the rock, it was me who slid a good way down on my backside and had huge trouble climbing back up that rock to the door! It simply climbs more than a person is able to climb on all fours. In the end I managed to get up that rock-hill in the desert and I wanted to photograph the car on top from below, the way you see it in ads for off-roaders. Unfortunately I wasn't able to climb down the rock. And on top of that I got scared that there was no way to drive this thing back down. It barely made it up, but going down it'll simply roll over. And I'll be paying it off till I die. Sure, I paid extra for insurance, but I doubt it covers mountaineering:).
In the end driving down was even easier than climbing up. I just put it in low first gear and drove down slowly. I even managed to take a photo of the view through the windscreen. It was about midnight already, but you can see something there. Of course you can't tell the angle from the photos, so it doesn't look nearly as terrifying.
The next day I was telling Rae how I'd been tearing around the desert and how much I liked it, and she said she had something even better for me. I couldn't imagine that, but she was right. A motorbike with four wheels, made specially and solely for tearing around off-road, sure, it doesn't have leather seats and a stereo, but it weighs just a few kilos and so with half-deflated tyres it'll climb ABSOLUTELY anywhere.
The beginning was rough. She says she'll drive, I should sit behind her. The bike is a single-seater, I didn't want to press up against her too much (after all, she's got a fifteen-year-old daughter and her husband was there:)), so I sat quite far back on the rack. Which shifted the centre of gravity from the middle to the rear, and on the first almost vertical rock, where Rae wanted to show me how nicely it climbs, we tipped over. So before I even had the handlebars in my hands, I already had both arms bloodied and scraped up to the elbows:(. But I was a hero and on we went through black swamps, past white cliffs. When the handlebars finally got into my hands, I immediately knew what toy I'd be asking mum for next Christmas. A Honda 350 quad, desert spec, mum:).
At night I also took the Jeep for a drive through the desert, I put on my all-time favourite CD, U2 – Joshua Tree, which fitted Joshua Tree National Park perfectly. In the morning I unfortunately discovered that those cacti had badly scratched the green metallic paint. So again I was picturing how I'd be paying it off till I die. Luckily it washed off.
The rest of the week was more work than fun, but I still enjoyed driving the Jeep, even if only on highways and in towns. Altogether I clocked up about 1000km in it... Oh well... Now this doesn't seem so rad to me anymore:

Three fundamental positive factors influence the air here:
By far the strictest emission limits on the globe. The instruments at Czech emission testing stations can't even measure numbers that small:)
Low-octane petrol. Most cars here run on petrol with an octane rating of 89. For comparison, Natural in the Czech Republic is 95, and you can even buy 98. Here the best is 92.
The sea breeze. Even 1. and 2. together would be no use if there weren't a constant wind off the sea.
The combination of 1.-3. results in a situation where the busiest waterfront with lines of cars is at the same time a popular jogging zone.

So one time we're sitting in a bar with Jeff and suddenly we hear a trolleybus braking desperately. It was sometime after midnight, somehow it didn't really grab our attention. Only after a while we go have a look at what happened and we see some poor sod trying to push that trolleybus away with a pickup! So I'm figuring out why and I see there were no wires above that trolleybus! The idiot forgot to turn, he went straight instead of right, unfortunately the wires only went straight :). Ending up on a street with no wires is a pretty fatal business for a trolleybus.
In the end they managed to get the trolleybus moving with that pickup, except as they were backing up into the area with wires, they managed to short out those wires with the poles, which not only created an arc and a flash like crazy, not only blew the fuses, but on top of that burned through one pole and the trolleybus was legless :). A trolleybus ambulance came for it and the show was over.
By the way, since we're on public transport, it's surprisingly quite well developed in San Francisco, which is an exception in the USA. The average age of public transport vehicles (bus, trolleybus, metro, tram) is about 25 years. It's like the buses in Moscow. The only people riding it are homeless guys, tourists and other riffraff :).

In the huge Golden Gate park they keep a herd of bisons! It's a park in the middle of the city, but it's as big as Žižkov.

Today I went for a ride on my toy, a Yamaha 1100cc, on which I fixed the brakes last week. I went for a ride along the coastal Route 1, which runs along the whole west coast of California and is basically carved into the cliffs, so on the right there's a cliff and the sea down below, on the left a rock and it keeps twisting left right up down, sunshine, waves, just romantic as hell :). I quite enjoyed it. Yes yes, I know, I'll ride carefully.

Yesterday I went to see Jeff at Yankee's (a bar where they've got Jeffrey Minarik added to the inventory list :)) and Ernie was there with him, he's a former crew member from the days when I lived there. So I ask him what's up and he goes: "Guess where my computers are!" (he's a computer maniac, you see). Well and I say I don't know and he says the San Francisco police have them. I'm thinking oh crap, software piracy, things are getting tough, they'll have me soon too. Nope. His WIFE, who he married a year and a half ago, reported him for distributing child pornography! (nonsense of course, the cops found nothing either and even laughed about it). He'd been at sea for three months, he comes home and in his room four cops are waiting for him with this accusation... Nice little wife, eh? She did it because she found links to dating agencies on the Internet on that computer, from the days when Ernie was single...

I think I've written here once about my most important project, which is the Citrix server that serves all the accountants and financial directors from all our hospitals across California for doing the accounting, issuing wages and so on, and they work on it remotely over the Internet and that way it's all centralised in my server room in Oakland.
Last week there was a corporation-wide meeting of all the management and I again gave a presentation there about the state of the computers at our sites. Among other things I say that we have a weak UPS (a battery for the computer when the power goes out) and that we need a bigger one, since this one lasts about 3 minutes for those two servers. And that it costs about $650 (26,000 CZK). And they say it's kinda expensive, and that they'll have to think about it.
On Thursday Mary from Oakland calls me (I was in Los Angeles at the time), that there was a big fire in Oakland yesterday and the power was off for a while and now the accounting server isn't working. Well I had a laugh at that, that I'd said so, that the battery's worth nothing, but I had no idea how soon that laugh would be wiped off my face. First I tried to do something with it remotely, but it didn't work.
On Monday morning I threw myself at it properly. I wanted to have it done quickly, because this week I needed to install about 30 computers in three different buildings.
After I'd spent 6 hours straight on it, with manuals, searching the Internet and digging around, and nothing, I called the guy who supplied us the server (Marty). We both know it's a critical matter, because when this server doesn't work, about 15 people can't work and in time about 600 people wouldn't get their pay. So he threw himself at it with me.
After about another three hours he brought in two more guys from his company, so by then there were 4 of us slogging away at it. Nothing.
On Wednesday I decided to call the maker of the software, Citrix. They were willing to help me, unfortunately they charge $440 (17,000 CZK) per phone call. I managed to hang up quickly. Marty called them, being their distributor he gets it free. He spent an hour and a half on the phone and just when it looked like they were getting to some result, they cut the power and the call was disconnected. He never managed to get through to the same person again.
At about one in the afternoon on Wednesday, when we were all totally exhausted, we decided to call Microsoft directly. Right from the start we knew exactly why and what wasn't working, we just couldn't figure out what to do about it. So I called Microsoft, paid $245 for the call and they kindly found in their database what kind of error it was and said they'd email it to me.
I wait for that email, then I look at it and it's complete nonsense. For 10,000 CZK... Nevertheless it brought me to one saving idea, so I chase after it, I try it and....
IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I dropped into a chair completely drained and felt like I'd run a marathon. The rest of the work three days behind, but on the other hand 15 happy people who didn't even believe any more that it would ever work again and now they were jumping for joy on the phone at me :).


h3. Stories 7

The other day I forgot my book for the plane, so I was forced to pull out one of those advertising magazines. This one was more or less a catalogue of the junk you can buy there.
I'm picking out the best gems:
-A phone that displays the caller's number on the TV screen! So the American doesn't have to take his eyes off the show, of course!)
-A waterproof phone
-Binoculars with an FM radio
-a talking watch
-a tide timer
-a floating trampoline
-A voice-controlled TV remote (apparently on the command "Shut up!" it mutes an unpopular politician, can be programmed by name too, e.g.: Zeman, shut up already! :))
-a laser pointer with a built-in dictaphone
-An alarm clock that projects the time onto the wall
-a watch with a built-in digital camera
-a floor lamp with a reading magnifier
-a personal battery-powered air conditioner - looks like a plastic headband...
-glowing wheels for a scooter
-a basketball with a built-in compressor!
-a hand-cranked mobile phone charger!
-a torch shaped like a baseball bat

So one time I'm watching hockey at Jeff's on the boat and it's the NHL Stanley Cup semifinal. Pittsburgh against New Jersey. Line-up:
Pittsburgh (Hlinka, Lang, Jágr, Straka and one more Czech whose name I forgot...)
New Jersey (Holík, Sýkora, Eliáš)
Looks like the Czechs are running the show here now :)
Two days later I'm talking to my folks and they ask if I'm following the final of the 2001 Hockey World Championship? That got me going and I went to put it on the TV. We've got "only" 58 channels, so I didn't find it there. So I quickly drive to the boat, where they've got a satellite and 970 (that's nine hundred and seventy) channels, thinking I'd catch it there. NO WAY! They weren't showing it anywhere! Those conceited American cows think that if it isn't played on their soil, they'll just ignore it!
As a last chance I rush off to one sports bar where they've got about eight TVs with nothing but sport and I ask if they can put on the final of the 2001 Hockey World Championship. They tell me the NHL has a break today! They have no clue at all that their national team went off somewhere to a World Championship and got a thrashing, they think the NHL is the World Championship!
I had to follow the results only on www.hokej.cz, where there was a report about once every two minutes. Czech Radio does broadcast over the Internet and I listen to it regularly, but that day all 6 or however many million Czechs living abroad had the same idea, so it was kind of overloaded :(.

One member of Jeff's crew lives in terrible fear of getting into trouble with the police. He's got a big house with a garden and he's also got six dogs. In California there's a law that you can only keep 2 dogs in one house...

I flew down to Southern California for a week again and again I rented a car there for the week. Because this time I didn't have anything big to transport and mainly because I was going to visit the vice-president and owner of the whole corporation, I didn't want to provoke with a car worth 2.5 million :). I wanted to look like a thrifty guy (when it's his money), so I tell them at the rental place to give me something cheap and... they did...
I got in and immediately started cursing. Little leg room, small, bouncy, plus it hasn't got a CD player so I'm dragging that pile of CDs around for nothing...
I had to stop myself. "Honzík," I say to myself, "this is a Ford Focus 2001, with air conditioning, electric windows, automatic, 2000 miles on the clock, that's probably better than any car you've ever owned!" That dissatisfied voice again: "Yeah, but that Jeep last time, you're not saving that much anyway, somebody else is paying for it anyway, this one's going to give you a bad back when you drive those 300 km into the desert and back and anyway..."
When I was at the vice-president's and he came out to see me off, I was glad I had a small cheap banger.
When I was coming back wrecked from the desert and my back was aching, I'd again agree with that dissatisfied little voice :).

Man is a thoroughly malicious creature, which is why this little tale should please all my readerses (anyone who thinks readerses looks like a horrible howler didn't get that it's a quote (or rather a qwote from Cyrano).
It actually started already on Wednesday evening. I spent the whole day installing a new network and computers in one of those buildings where, before I showed up, they used calculators and typewriters (no, we're not in Russia!). Around six in the evening I'm getting ready to leave and I go to one of the rooms to fetch my sweater and a few other things. Room locked, everybody who had that special key is already gone. Grreat, it's an hour's drive here from my hotel, so tomorrow I'll have to do it all over again...
On Thursday morning I drive to a different building to install a server and a couple of new computers into the network. I get there, unpack the server, which I'd nicely configured in advance back in the office in Oakland (about 3-4 hours of work) and had shipped here by mail. (a server usually weighs about 30-40 kg, so I'm hardly going to drag it onto a plane, right...)
I unpack the server, plug in all the cables, everything was supposed to be ready so that it wouldn't take more than ten minutes to get it running. So I switch it on and nothing... The postal guys simply dropped it somewhere along the way, which doesn't do computers as much good as a good scratch does pigs, so the server is f...ed.
I tried to take the whole thing apart and find out what was wrong where, I called the manufacturer, Dell (even though it's a server from an auction and for a fifth of the original price, it's still under warranty) and of course, while I've got them on the phone, it started working. The second I hung up, it stopped.
Because I had a million other things to do, I had to give up on the server and deal with the rest. At the moment there's a claim being sorted out with FedEx, who delivered it, that they'll pay for the repair or whatever...
In the evening I more or less finished the rest that needed doing there, and a drive into the desert awaited me, 300 km in that little runt of a car.
I just about made it there and collapsed into bed. Friday was supposed to be an easy day, all I had to do was install a tape backup device which I couldn't install last time because I didn't have the right cables. Piece of cake, I've got the cables, I can sleep in.
Yeah, right. I had the cables, but I was missing a terminator. In the desert you can't get hold of anything more complicated than a socket splitter, so again, nothing doing. I felt like a moron. The worst part is that if something goes wrong with that server and they don't have a backup on tape, it's my fault.
Anyway, I was done with this task quickly, so I'm looking for what else I could sort out there. The important thing is to keep people happy in order of importance, so I had a chat with the hospital director. (It's the one from One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest.)
Turned out his computer isn't exactly the fastest, so I'd install a new one for him. He complained that his mails were slow to send.
I tell him no problem, we'll save the data on the server, I'll shove a new computer in here and in 20 minutes it's done. When I was leaving at seven in the evening and knew I was halfway, I wasn't in a laughing mood. Not only had somebody accidentally taken my installation floppy in LA, so I had to chase those files down by phone and mail, but on top of that the dear director had 2 printers, a scanner and a ZIP drive hooked up to that computer, all of it through the parallel port, and none of that junk has drivers in Windows 2000...
Well, what can I say, I finished it on Saturday at half past eleven in the morning...

Then I got invited over to the director's secretary's place (I reckon Rae from the desert has already been mentioned here...). So I race over there (it's about an hour by car), got a sandwich and apparently we're going shopping. So, well, okay, I guess I'll put up with it. Turns out we're going shopping for another one of those four-wheeled bikes!!! So that visitors can ride their own!!! I had to double-check six times that I'm not the visitor she's buying it for. Apparently not, at most the final straw :).
So she bought another quad and they'd deliver it to her home in about two hours. So we drive to her place and she was like a little kid who can't wait for a new toy. Kept looking out of the window, running around and so on.
I wasn't enjoying it much, so I say we could go take a look at that rock I climbed on my own at night in the Jeep last time, so I could see it in daylight. So okay then.
_Now I had to look up the previous stories to find out whether I'd blabbed about how Rae dumped me off that bike last time. I blabbed._
So off we go into the desert again, this time I'm driving from the house, Rae is way too horny for that new quad.
I'm showing her where I climbed up in the Jeep, it's basically the same rock where we flipped over, just about 5 metres further right. Since it worked in the Jeep, on a quad it has to be a breeze. So I start scrambling up there and it's going totally fine. About three metres before the top, where it already looked fine, Rae yells enthusiastically „piece of cake!“, which literally means a slice of cake, but stands for something like „no sweat“. At that moment the bike swerved sideways and flipped over onto me, Rae leapt off the other side. The rest is just deduction from the injuries and the damage. I whacked my head (thank God for the helmet), the bike hopped down with its full weight and the footpeg landed on my ankle (thank God for the high hiking boots), Rae fell on her arse and the bike... when I think about it, my butt muscles clench... started rolling faster and faster down off the rock... It turned over about six times, bounced and ended up down in the bushes. I saw sod all, because from the fall my glasses got shoved somewhere up on the top of my head under the helmet, my head was spinning from the blow and I was completely dazed. Apparently all I did was yell at the bike in a desperate voice, „Stoop!!“. Well, after a disgustingly long moment it stopped in the bushes.
While inspecting the damage it turned out that on the way along the road we'd picked up a hell of a nail, the tyre went flat (given that you ride on half-deflated ones, you couldn't tell) and at the top of that rock the tyre slipped off the rim... That was the sideways swerve that there was simply nothing to be done about.
All in all it wasn't that bad. The bike had bent handlebars, that could be straightened. A slightly dented tank doesn't matter in the desert and for the puncture you order a new tyre. They're hardly going to repair it, right... I've got a squashed but otherwise healthy ankle, Rae a bruise across her whole backside and right thigh...
But I was ashamed like a little kid, and it didn't help much that last time Rae flipped it too and she didn't even have a tyre come off...
By the time we pushed it home, I was feeling worse and worse. Since I'd been feeling rotten since the morning, I knew it had nothing to do with the fall. I just don't cope well with the sun and sharp changes of temperature. Down at the hospital it's now about 45 degrees Celsius during the day, but inside it's air-conditioned to about 18. And they did warn me that in the summer I should bring gloves. So I laughed at it as a joke and they said it's deadly serious. That I'd need those gloves to open the car, because the handle gets so scorching you can't touch it...
So I was feeling worse and worse, the stress from the bike didn't help either and after a shower I wasn't capable of anything other than finding myself a bed and waiting until I fell asleep or died, whichever came first. I hadn't felt this rotten in about five years... The pill I got I puked up after a while and then I just wished I'd die.
I slept from five in the evening till six in the morning, they only came to look at me to see if I was still breathing, I think in my half-sleep I heard them talking about how they'd explain to the corporation's management that the head of IT of the whole corporation is dead :).
It wasn't the first migraine of this kind I'd survived, it just hadn't happened to me for a long time... Plus it rarely happened under such dramatic circumstances.
At six in the morning I had breakfast with them and set off back from the desert to Los Angeles, to the airport. I was thinking to myself that I'm a really great houseguest. Turns up, flips the bike over, then sleeps and pukes for 13 hours and disappears again :). But they were totally cool about it and invited me for next time. After all, it wasn't the first and won't be the last time somebody rolled that bike. Only poor Rae couldn't try out the new one when they delivered it, because her bruise had settled in by then. So her husband went to try it out and when he came back he said this new one climbed our rock totally fine. He was bullshitting.

So after a weekend like that I'm blazing down the motorway at six in the morning, thinking about how I'll make the plane by nine so that at ten I can chat with my folks on the Internet, and somewhere halfway there I decided to pull off the motorway and get some food out of the boot. I basically hadn't eaten in 36 hours. So I leave the engine running, the boot opens from the inside, so I go round the back and the boot's shut. I come back to the front and I hear: „Click“. American cars are set up so that when you get in, start it up and slam the door, after about 10 seconds they lock themselves, so that at a red light a thief can't jump in and steal your bags or whatever. Unfortunately this car didn't figure out that the owner is exactly the guy who needs to jump inside, and it locked itself. So there I'm standing and thinking. Grreat weekend. After all that I'm now standing here, Sunday, half past seven in the morning, in some arse-end little town somewhere off the motorway, fog and cold, flip-flops on my bare feet, documents, money and keys in a locked, running car in the middle of a totally deserted factory district. Splendid.
I found a dollar in my pocket, which, as it later turned out, isn't even enough for a doughnut. So I'm pacing desperately around the car, looking for a way in, I can't go far looking for a phone because I've got a bruised ankle and I desperately need a number two.
I must have looked so desperate that something happened which I wouldn't have expected in this country, where everybody looks out only and exclusively for themselves. A guy pulled up next to me and asks if I'm okay. So I explained it to him and he first offered me his mobile, and then drove me to a phone booth (about 2 km away!).
From there it was easy. In the directory I found the number for Hertz, who I had the car from, and like every decent company they had a toll-free number. So I explained to them what's what (Sunday morning!) and they said they're sending somebody over and he'd be there in about 45 minutes.
So in the meantime I went (limped) over to some hotel to use the toilet, bought a chocolate bar with that dollar (as I already said, it wasn't enough for a doughnut) and then loafed around for a while. A big tow truck arrived, loaded me up and drove me to the car. Considering what I'd been through over the past few days, I wouldn't have been the least bit surprised if the car had been gone. After all, it was in a deserted district, a running car with the key inside... It was there. From the moment we stopped to the opening of my door, it took the guy with his bundle of wires 20 seconds! Classic hooking it through the window like on an old Škoda, only the wire was far more complicatedly bent. I signed an invoice for $65, the paperwork took far longer than the work, and on we rode through the black swamp, past the white rocks...

After buying the quad we also went to buy beer. The first shop didn't have Pilsner, so in the interest of spreading beer culture I went with them to another shop.
I'm buying a six-pack of Pilsner and she hands me a paper bag for it. I say I don't want it, and she says it's the LAW!!! A law that orders alcohol to be sold in an opaque paper bag... So I informed her right away that she should count on ending up on Kocourkov :)


h3. Stories 8

So here's the situation: A girl drives to school in her mum's car and since she's running late, she parks somewhere stupid. While she's in school, the cops show up and are eyeing the badly parked car, and then they notice that behind the front seat there's a kitchen knife lying on the floor. (later it turns out it fell out of her mum's bag). They summon the girl to the station and because she brought a „dangerous weapon“ into the fenced-off and marked „Weapon-Free Zone“ around the school, she's immediately expelled with no chance of graduating.
If that sounds like nonsense, don't forget I'm in Kocourkov. This really did happen here, it was on the news on CNN. (no Nova)
Jeff remarked on that that there's definitely somebody at that same school who's killed someone, only they did it outside the „Zone“ and nobody saw them, so they'll graduate just fine...

It's against the law in California to scatter the ashes of the deceased. Since they couldn't make a special law for it, the whole thing is based on the „littering“ law, which is a terribly strict law over here. On the highways there are signs saying $1000 fine for littering. So I picture somebody wanting to scatter great-grandpa's ashes and the cops catch them at it and want to slap a fine on them or lock them up right away. So there are the cops running around with little baggies and brushes collecting great-grandpa's ashes as evidence:).

Today it's all Kocourkov stuff. I caught this one in some public toilet. There was a whopping great sign there, which demonstrated, with pictures and all, how a person should, and now pay attention, WASH THEIR HANDS! I think I remember where it was, next time I'll take my camera there and send the proof.

When they hired me, it thrilled me to bits (even though of course I acted like it was totally normal) that I'd be flying two or three times a month. I didn't want to let it show, so during takeoff and landing I'd always pretend to be reading and peek out the window out of the corner of my eye:)
Unfortunately everything wears off eventually, so the other day it happened that I fell asleep before we even taxied onto the runway and I was only woken up by the rustling of people getting off. I just couldn't get my head round suddenly being 800 km further south:)

Ever since I had that Jeep I've had some kind of bad luck with rental cars. The other day I decided again to rent something decent, and I picked the Sports Car class. They had two kinds, both some American junk, so I knew sod all about what was what and I picked a Pontiac Grand Am. Boy, did I screw up. A small ugly American car, inside it stank like cats had been going there to pee, seats burnt through by cigarettes, right next to the no-smoking sticker another burn hole, 50,000 miles on the clock (a disgrace for a rental car) and from 100 km/h up the steering wheel shook. I wanted to return it straight away, but I didn't come across any of their branches, so I had to put up with it for the week. On top of that, sports car or not, it was an automatic.
The only thing I can't deny is that it really did have a sports engine. Thank God the cops didn't catch me anywhere:)

If anybody had told me a year and a half ago how much I'd shell out for a bike and that I'd be riding it with a helmet on, I'd have laughed my head off. I mean, I ditched bikes at fifteen when I got my motorbike licence. But then Ála Mrkvičků had to go and take me on an off-road downhill run on that ski slope in the Krkonoše. That's where I found out that off-road cars in the rough aren't the only fun there is. A speed descent on a top-end bike has something to it too.
Originally I also couldn't get how anybody could blow such a fortune on a bike, I mean, there can't be that much difference compared to my Favorit for 1230 crowns! Rubbish. I found out the difference, and a fundamental one, when Pápa lent me his luxury bike... It's about like riding a regular-service Ikarus bus versus a luxury Mercedes:).
Besides, mountain biking is a dead fair sport, because every vertical metre you sweat blood to climb, you then get to enjoy on the way down:).
The upshot of the factors just described was that I'd decided long ago to get myself a bike too. So one Sunday after lunch I finally got myself moving and set off shopping. Originally I wanted to go to some big box store outside town so it'd be cheaper, but then it got late and I still couldn't find one in the Yellow Pages, so we just drove to one tiny shop round the corner, almost in the centre.
It turned out that this „little shop“ not only has several hundred bikes in the storeroom out back, but on top of that they've got a big sale on last year's models.
I'd once asked Ála for instructions on what bike I should buy, I printed it out and carried it around with me all the time. Not this Sunday, though... So I was picking, so to speak, blind. The only thing I knew for sure was that I had to buy a 22-inch frame, because that's the biggest they make. In the end it turned out they had 21 and 23, so I took the 23“.
An aside for the experts, the spec of the model I picked:

Frame: 23\", Specialized Rockhopper Pro Direct A1x
\"Gearing\" 27 speeds, Shimano Deore XT
Forks: Manitou SX TPC Sport
Brakes probably Avid 1.0L
Rims Ritchey 26x1.90

The whole thing is a yellow-and-black combo and though I hadn't planned it, it had clip-in pedals on it. That's the sort of thing you need special shoes for, the shoes have a little plate screwed on underneath that drops into the grooves on the pedals so the shoe doesn't slip off. I saw it for the first time in my life exactly a year and a half ago and it struck me as totally pervertedJ. The shoe can only be unhooked with a special twist-and-dodge sideways manoeuvre. So I bought Shimano shoes as well and I've already got a decent hole in my elbow from not managing to unclip in time during the first test:-))
We went to try it out straight away and that same evening I sent Ála an email with the spec, because I was afraid I'd bought some overpriced piece of junk. On top of that the bike didn't have a single bit of Ála's instructions on it. The only thing that comforted me a little was that the bike was marked down by $330.
Ála got back to me on Monday, so we had a chat and it turned out that even a blind pigeon finds a grain. That bike of mine is built from nothing but qua-qua-quality bits, straight for racersJ. In the Czech Republic it would have cost about 30,000 more... So now I have to head out somewhere every weekend to make the most of it!
Luckily I find myself in the middle of a paradise for cyclists, especially mountain bikers. If I take a 50 km radius around San Francisco, I find hundreds of kilometres of maintained and marked trails on the bike map. San Francisco is surrounded by mountains that seem made for this sport, plus a climate with 300-340 sunny days a year, it's never too hot thanks to the cold wind off the ocean (more often it's cold even when the sun's out), just ideal conditions.
Which reminds me that anybody who'd fancy visiting us here is more than welcome any time!
This weekend on Sunday we set off on a big bike trip and it was confirmed that the conditions really are ideal! Only I read that in some protected areas a helmet is compulsory, so I broke the tough guy in me and bought one. It goes nicely with the bike and it's got a peakJ.

We were waiting for takeoff and I heard the stewardesses asking over the intercom for a „seatbelt extension“, which is something like a belt extender, and it made no sense to me at all. When they brought it, it became clear. That pig (probably of the female sex) was so fat that not only was she sitting on two seats, but the belt didn't reach round her belly! So just like when several guys hug all the way round a tree, they had to hook that extender onto the normal belt to strap her in...
I reckon that if anything had happened, she'd have ripped out that seat along with half the floor and a chunk of the wing anyway...

The other day I heard a lovely saying from a sailor, that those motorbikes with an armchair, a stereo and a 1.5-litre engine are basically a „dick extension“, i.e. a penis extender for those who need it to pull any bird at allJ. Which makes me think that unfortunately it could be extended to big off-road cars tooJ.

I don't know how much news from here gets through to us back home (nothing gets through from home to here), but one of the big events lately is the „recall“ of Firestone tyres (a recall has been mentioned here once before, a recall is when the maker of anything finds a fundamental fault in some product and not only pulls it from sale, but also refunds everybody who's already bought it).
So ever since the days of old Mr Ford, Firestone tyres were fitted to new Fords, because Mr Ford was mates with Mr Firestone. Last year loads (hundreds, in fact) of Ford Explorers suddenly started turning up that had flipped onto their roofs somewhere. Because Americans look for a way to sue for money in any misfortune, investigations got going on every possible front, including private ones. Two things came to light:
1. Ford's off-road cars have been built on a badly engineered chassis since 1984
2. Several types of Firestone off-road tyres, which as it happens were fitted to off-road Fords, have a tendency to blow out for no particular reason.
Ever since then Ford and Firestone have been arguing about who's to blame for those 130 dead. Firestone announced a recall on the tyre types concerned, Ford is playing dead.
Ever since the aforementioned year 1984, Ford has been in court with hundreds of owners of the Ford Bronco II (a smaller off-roader), who sued Ford over that model's pathetic stability after they'd managed to flip it onto its roof somewhere. (as it happens it was my second car after I arrived here and it really wasn't very stable... I certainly wouldn't have dared try slinging it round a roundabout in a skid somewhere...)
When Ford started making the Explorer sometime in the nineties, to save money on a new assembly line for the Explorer they kept the chassis type from the Bronco II...
I can't think of a punchline for this story, some surprising twist at the end. So maybe just that Firestone refused to supply tyres for new Fords and the new type of Explorer already has a new chassis...

Now something less seriousJ.
Last Sunday we were driving back from a bike trip, bikes already crammed in the car, and we were going through the tunnel just above the Golden Gate. There was a jam, so we spent about ten minutes in that tunnel and somebody up front honked. I don't know what got into them, but within a moment more and more joined in, until the whole tunnel was honking. Not me, though...
It totally reminded me of Prague after the ice hockey World ChampionshipJ. Which also reminds me that the last time I was in Los Angeles, every third car there was driving around with a Los Angeles Lakers flag, that's the local basketball team, which was playing for the top spot in the NBA.
Taking things back to the shop
I've mentioned it here once already, anything you buy here you can return any time without giving a reason. Even unpacked and used. Great from the consumer's point of view, though I wouldn't want to be selling anything here...
The other day I was buying some gadgets for my laptop and I realised how spoilt I've got by that system. Naturally I bought something completely wrong and on Saturday at half past eight in the evening I went to return it. They even apologised to me, as if it had been their screw-up and not mine... I can already see myself back in the Czech Republic buying something wrong and when I come to return it, they'll look at me like I'm from the moon, that I'm bringing it back just because I bought the wrong thingJ.

When I had someone's palm pilot (a smarter organiser) in my hands about half a year ago and that woman was complaining that it wasn't receiving her emails, I thought it was one of those cases where people wonder why they can't shove a floppy into the drive when they haven't taken out the one that's already in there. I insisted that it couldn't possibly be receiving emails when it wasn't hooked up by a cable to any computer...
Turned out that palm pilot really did have an antenna and was able to connect to the Internet anywhere in the USA wirelessly... So the dummy was me :-).
One of my jobs at work was to hook up every building to the Internet with a fixed line. Mostly it was easy, DSL technology can bring the Internet over a phone cable at speeds up to 2 MB/s, and for quite a low flat fee. In some areas that service isn't available though, so I had to look for other options. I found a company that can sort out the Internet wirelessly, using an antenna on the roof. I was pretty sceptical about it, since wireless data transfers tend to be glitchy, slow and unreliable. But that building was, so to speak, „in the middle of nowhere“, so it was the only option.
There were loads of trees around that building, so they had to build an 11-metre-high tower on the roof to have line of sight to the transmitter. At that point I didn't believe in it at all.
In the end they mounted it and wired it up, and so I drove over there to configure the server and the whole network for the Internet. Just for the hell of it I tested the speed of the connection and my jaw dropped right down to my ribcage. A 22MB file that would take several hours to download over a modem, several minutes over DSL, came down in 21 seconds... Unbelievable. Then I talked to the guys from that company and they told me flatly that it's normal, that they guarantee speeds of 4-6 MB/s.
I'm already looking forward to when this technology and speed will be available in laptops and those palm pilots too.... Without towers on the roofs...

Because during the week I never run into a television, whenever I'm in a hotel somewhere I switch it on so I don't forget what it looks like. The other day I saw a report there about strippers from Las Vegas and everything they do to stay in the trade into advanced age. Some of them were pushing sixty…
With one of them (about 30), they went to her plastic surgeon. While they were discussing where she wanted how much fat taken off and what size and shape of boobs she wanted this time, I was fine. But when the camera stayed there for the entire operation as well, I was surprised. In the vast majority of cases, when even a hint of nudity appears on American television (a bare breast, a bum, even in tiny swimming trunks), it's always blurred out into little squares by the censors so it doesn't spoil their kiddies. (brains splattered on a wall three times an hour apparently doesn't spoil the kiddies).
They showed how they cut the skin right under the nipple, how they pulled out the old silicone, then how they stuffed the new, bigger one in there, then how the doctor patted it about like he was stuffing a sausage, and then he sewed the nipple back up.
Then he cut a little hole in her side, stuck a tube in there and switched on an ordinary vacuum cleaner (judging by the sound). He was poking around with that tube under her skin like under a duvet and sucking out the fat till it was squelching in the vacuum cleaner.
When he finished the procedure, sewed everything up and washed it, he helped the stripper's lover LOAD her into the CAR and the lover drove her home like from the hairdresser's! No convalescence, no observation in hospital, straight home with her.
The next shot was about a month later, how she's merrily dancing naked in a bar again.
When I told this to Jeff, he said he'd happened to see it too (that took my breath away, a: he never watches television and b: they have 970 channels on the ship). We got talking about that silicone somehow and it came out that especially in Southern California female competitiveness is so out of hand (Hollywood) that roughly 50% of women have fake boobs... That completely ruined my illusions, ever since then whenever I see a woman with nice boobs here, I can't shake the feeling that it's just a plastic bag with silicone inside and I remember that doctor, how he was patting it about in there in that breast to get it into the desired shape...

In the same hotel I also saw a programme with this name. It was footage from police cars and helicopters. Every police car has a permanently running camera in its bumper, you see.
There were a few beautiful shots (oddly enough they only showed accidents with a happy ending, meaning no blood and no corpses). The best one was probably the one where a cop pulled over a woman for speeding on the motorway. (Cops here never overtake the suspect, they just put the lights on and stop behind them)
So the police car is standing there and in front of it that woman's car and the cop is reading through her documents standing between the two cars and just casually says to her: „Come away from the road there, or someone'll run you over“. So she takes two steps into the verge and right that second BANG, a hell of a crash, a truck at full speed slams straight into the back of her car! How it missed the police car I don't know, but that woman's car flew into the air and landed on its roof in the ditch, the truck went up on two wheels from the impact but then straightened up and disappeared out of shot. (it couldn't have got far). The best bit was that cop, who looked up from the documents and in a completely calm voice says: „There you go, I told you so“ :-).
Then there was one more amazing shot, how on an icy motorway there are six cars scattered all over the place, and how more of them come along, or rather come skating slowly along, and gradually bump into the ones already „parked“, so it made sounds like a bowling alley :). (the sound guy's work, of course)

I got a cheque for one laptop, so I went to cash it at the relevant bank. As I'm standing there waiting in the queue, looking around, I got a feeling similar to the one Martin and I once had when we realised on the Chicago subway that we were the only white people there.
Here in this bank everyone was white, but even so I somehow didn't belong there… First counter, a girl with a man's haircut, a man's shirt, a tie, men's trousers and shoes. Second counter, a bloke, carefully lacquered hair, suspiciously long lashes. The customer at the second counter, a fat bloke about fifty, long grey hair carefully combed into some sort of flowing bob, nails painted red, a vest top with a black lacy bra peeking out from under it, keeping his D-cup boobs from falling onto his beer belly. And of course a high, affected little voice with a marked emphasis on the S. A similarly marked S was coming from another counter too…
It dawned on me that the Castro district, where I'd accidentally ended up, is a famous gay quarter with an absolute majority of homosexual residents. After all, the whole of San Francisco has a reputation as a gay paradise and nobody here bats an eyelid at anything any more… Except me, that is…:-).
When it was my turn, besides signing that cheque I also had to put my thumbprint on it. But that probably had nothing to do with sexual orientation :-).

I've already written here about how California is short of power plants and that's why they cut off our electricity from time to time, and how the worst is yet to come in the summer when everyone switches on their air conditioning.
Lately there have been more and more adverts on the radio about how to save electricity so we can get through this energy crisis. The state pays for it (and I contribute significantly to that with my 42.5% tax burden) and they're adverts along the lines of:
„Switch off your second fridge and second freezer and try to make do with one.“
„Switch off your stereo before you leave the house.“
„Unplug all printers and faxes before the end of the working day“
One of them particularly moved me, when it advised people:
„A bag of ice put in front of a fan works just as well as your air conditioning“ :-).

One more along the same lines. Last year before the trip to Cuba I needed to rent out Tůňka and I had one American woman there who was interested. She changed her mind because the water pressure in the shower seemed low to her.
Here, when somebody's having a shower, they're guaranteed to get scalded if someone flushes the toilet at that moment or turns on the water in the kitchen… Water pressure like the pump in Čermná…

Alex bought a book with this title. It's about how Americans are simply so used to scoffing hamburgers and fries at McDonald's and the like that it doesn't even seem odd to them any more and they consider it normal food.
I'll refer again to the story called “The Dietician”, which I published here a while back. The point was that in one of those children's hospitals they hired a woman who's supposed to look after the correct composition of their menu. I was sitting with her at lunch and she tossed away a slice of cheese in disgust because it wasn't low-fat and then happily scoffed a disgusting greasy hamburger for lunch.
I was at that hospital for lunch again and the main course was… a roll with salami. Lunch for children in hospital…

I'm getting ready to go to the Czech Republic for 14 days as a holiday, so I just announced it at work and they were like sure, fine.
Then Káča came along saying she has “time off” from Lily only until 17 August at the latest, and when exactly are we going to Venezuela then to visit Lily's previous nanny, who she made friends with. So I asked at work and the boss asks me if I know how holidays work here.
Turns out that for every month of work an employee accrues one day of holiday, so after a year of work he has twelve days and they add three as a bonus. So 15 days of holiday for a year of work… Normally you take them out of the days you've accrued and with the trip to the Czech Republic I'll go horribly into the red, since I've officially been employed only since 22 May… So I don't know how it'll be with Venezuela…
Luckily they can't take the Czech Republic away from me, since I have to get my passport stamped with a new work visa at the American embassy in Prague… They gave it to me in America for an American employer, sure, but I have to pick it up outside US soil…

The biggest difference between the American and the European approach to life is in the relationship to work. A European works to earn money for the joys of life.
Most Americans no longer realise that work is just something that should support life, and they live only for that work…
Given how short a time I'm here for, I can easily fake the American approach…

I remember the days when Martin and I were filling up with petrol in America for 99 cents a gallon, meaning about 8 crowns a litre at the exchange rate back then.
Today it's up to 2.40 dollars a gallon and the crown's rate is even worse. The only thing that's changed for the better in those six years is that you don't have to go inside the petrol station to pay any more. You pay in advance here, so it was a pain guessing how much would fit in the tank, prepaying at the till and then going to pick up any change.
Now you just stick your credit card straight into the pump, fill up and off you go through the black swamp past the white rocks. What the attendant is there for, I don't know. Selling cigarettes and stuff, probably.

Today we went out to stretch our wheels again, this time in China Camp State Park. I don't know why it's called that, but it's a little way north of SF.
So we were riding around those forest trails, just about wide enough for one bike, and cursing the unusual heat.
When we rode back down to the car park, there was a so-called ranger sitting there, meaning a park policeman. (by the way there are loads of police here, state, federal, city, railway, postal, park, CIA, FBI etc. somebody worked out that about 40% of the nation works for the police in some way).
So that ranger was sitting there with a dog watching the surroundings. There was one of those drinking fountains there, I had a drink from it and then Káča came puffing up, had a drink too and then set about washing her hands in the fountain. The ranger was fine with it. Then Káča started washing her calves in the stream, the ranger still fine. When she started washing her T-shirt in it (without taking it off, mind :), the ranger started getting a bit nervous. But when she wheeled her bike up in front of the fountain to give it a wash too, I had to drag her away by force. I had in mind the story about Luke, who told me how he got a brutal fine from one of the rangers for riding off the marked trails. The rangers even have radar and the speed limit in the park on a bike is 15 miles an hour, marked everywhere. On the bends only 5 miles an hour...

When the war started, it was half past five in the morning in San Francisco. So naturally I was asleep. Suddenly Jeff bursts into the room babbling something about terrorists and New York. Given how much he usually exaggerates, I didn't pay it enough attention to make me get up and go watch TV. When Haydn came into the room around eight and said pretty much the same thing, it dawned on me that something serious was probably going on. And it kept dawning on me, with all the implications, for several more days…
All the Americans are terrible patriots now and you can't even hear anyone saying Bush is an idiot, the way they did every other minute before. Outside it looks a bit like the Czech Republic during the final stage of the Ice Hockey World Championship. Every second car has a flag, flags are totally sold out and new supplies have to be ordered (from China, for sure). The first report on CNN that had nothing to do with the attack appeared about six days after it. And here's the truly unbelievable part — for two days CNN didn't run ANY commercials at all!
After the Twin Towers went down (I'd never have believed it was technically possible) and those other two planes, several more planes were still missing for a few hours. It looked like they were somewhere up in the air looking for a target. In San Francisco the Golden Gate Bridge was closed to pedestrians. The other bridge, the Bay Bridge, the one I was supposed to take to work, is close enough that some crazy Muslim could mix it up. So I wasn't too keen on driving to work. It was about noon before I finally got myself going and drove off. It was the first time I was watching out for planes more than for cars.
The next day I was supposed to fly to Los Angeles on business. It was clear to me it probably wouldn't happen. In the end I had to postpone it by two weeks.
Everybody threatened that I had to be at the airport 2-3 hours early (I was used to tearing in about 5-10 minutes early). I arrived about an hour and a half early, a bit worried I wouldn't get through all those procedures in time. The first line was supposed to be right at the airport entrance, where they have one of those X-rays with the conveyor belt. There was 1, in words one, person in line ahead of me.
So I expected the next line right at the, damn, what do you call it, here they call it a Gate, which sounds too Anglican, at Ruzyně they call it Stojánka, which sounds too Russian, well I'd call it a trouser leg, because it's that mobile trouser leg you walk through into the plane. There I always just say my name at the counter, they glance at the computer and hand me a plastic boarding pass. Well, actually they also ask two questions. The first one is: "Has anyone asked you to take any luggage?" and the second: "Have you left your luggage unattended anywhere?". So you're supposed to answer No, No. Sometimes someone gets creative and asks something like: "Have you had all your luggage under constant supervision?". And since of course I'm not paying much attention, like an idiot I answer no and he has to ask again.
Well, in this second line I was all alone. From getting out of the car to picking up my boarding pass, instead of the planned up to two hours, exactly seven minutes went by. The rest of the time I just hung around the airport reading the paper.
The plane was then about two thirds empty, which I'd never experienced here before. Of course I was furiously looking around to see if I'd spot some Arab with a suspiciously bulging pocket or a knife sticking right out. Of course, just so it wouldn't be too easy for me, some gypsy-looking individual sat down right behind me. He changed seats about three times, had no luggage at all and kept looking around suspiciously. I was already getting ready for how, at his first suspicious move in my direction, I'd use a Jiu-Jitsu hold on him, like I saw in Saturnin, and thus save the plane from certain destruction. Then I'd bravely refuse all the medals and awards and celebrations of my heroic deed.
Of course nothing at all happened and the guy was most likely acting suspicious because he was scared, just like me :).
Today is 7.5.2011 and I'm writing these lines (ugh, what a cliché) sitting in a plane again. In the morning I told myself I wouldn't get caught out again and came to the airport not quite half an hour early. On the sidewalk in front of the airport there was a hell of a line, about 200 metres long. I say to myself, ha, poor guys with big luggage waiting in line to check in, I've only got a little backpack with a laptop, so I'll go straight inside. Nope. That was the line for the X-ray everybody has to go through. So I started looking for the number for South West Airlines, to say I'd miss the flight and could they bump me onto another one. The number, by the way, is 1-800-I FLY SWA, that is 1-800-I FLY SWA. It's common here for a number to be given as text and then you punch it in according to the letters that are on the phone next to each number. Sort of like writing a text message :).
Then I changed my mind and didn't call, figuring I'd see how fast it moved. Luckily it went pretty well, so I was at the trouser leg about five minutes before departure. The plane was full like it used to be, at the car rental there was a line again (not like last time, when I was there alone and felt like I was in a church in the early morning), plenty of cars in front of the hotel again. People in the pubs. Basically everything here has more or less gone back to normal. Nobody's panicking, nobody's hunting for gas masks or looking for the nearest bunker. When I watched the Czech news, it looked like those twin towers had been standing on Wenceslas Square. I don't underestimate the terrorists at all, but what's on ČT1 is fear-mongering.

Ages and ages ago, before the war and even before Venezuela, and I think even before the trip to the Czech Republic, I was on a business trip in the desert again and again I got lucky in that the rental place didn't have the car I'd reserved, so they let me choose between a Jaguar XJS and a Mitsubishi Montero Sport jeep for the price of the one I'd reserved. I'm certainly not going into the desert in a Jaguar, so I took the Montero, which is a big off-road car.
When I was done with work in the evening, of course I set out to explore the desert. Just as I raved here about the Jeep Grand Cherokee, the Montero was practically the same, maybe even a bit better. For the life of me I couldn't find a dune, a hill or a situation that would throw the car off. It was an automatic again, about 2000 miles on the clock, and I think I was the first person to take that car off the road at all. Americans do have off-road cars, but nobody takes them off-road.
In the end I decided I'd try breaking all the rules of off-road driving to find the limit of what the car could handle. It didn't take long. I came down one pretty steep dune at an angle to the left (which is of course stupid, but going straight down was no joke either, it was like driving down a garage ramp or something). The left front wheel dug into the ground and as I gave it gas, it buried itself deeper and deeper. I really didn't feel like getting out into that dust and heat from the air-conditioned leather interior, so I sat there, cranking the steering wheel, switching every possible transmission mode, turning off all the electronic ABS and traction control with every possible button and lever, and the car buried itself deeper and deeper. In the end I dared to step out into the dust and heat. I forgot one insignificant little detail. It was about half past ten at night, pitch dark in the desert and a decent hike to civilization. I'd left my phone at the hotel on the charger. Luckily the situation didn't look nearly as desperate as some of the ones in Libya in the desert, so I had a feeling I could (literally) dig myself out of it.
So I climbed out, caught my breath after the punch of heat and surveyed the situation. Left front wheel buried halfway, front bumper level with the ground. Right front wheel lightly touching the ground. The main weight was hanging (as usual in the desert) on the belly, which had hooked onto the edge of the dune. Left rear wheel slightly above the ground. I walked around the car intending to check whether there was some tool in the trunk you could dig with. Not that I was expecting a portable folding remote-controlled excavator, but at least the jack handle could have been there. To this day I don't know whether it was there or not, because and since I never got into that trunk. When I walked around the car, I just quietly uttered a few pithy Czech words. The right rear wheel was half a metre above the ground, the right rear light at the level of my head. Only from this angle could you see the whole situation. It strongly reminded me of getting stuck in the mud on the beach on the way to Libya :). (see section Africa 1998)
When I weighed up the options I had, it again came out as nothing but dig and dig (not kick the car in anger, but dig the car out of the sand). Then I swore again. I'd forgotten to bring my camera.
So I found a stick, or rather a little twig (oaks don't grow in the desert) and started digging. First I dug a hole under the belly so the weight would transfer back onto the wheels. Then I dug a little path for the left front wheel. Luckily sand digs well. After about 20 minutes of mole work à la Metrostav I dared to get back in the car. I set everything to slow but sure and slowly but surely I drove out. Phew. I felt like driving straight back to the hotel, but then I remembered the old pilot's rule: if you crash a plane, you have to go straight back up and beat the fear. So I found one more solid dune by the road and, with my butt training to be a successful "Buttoner" (in other words with my cheeks clenched :), I drove it up and down.

The weather in San Francisco is completely out of whack. All summer it was like spring, meaning sunshine but no heat, wind all the time. At the end of September, out of nowhere, it turned terribly, unbearably hot for a few days, a proper Indian summer. And that's it, this story has no punchline :).


h4. Gay gathering, take two

I have no idea whether I've already written about it here, anyway last year Martin and I went to the so-called Folsom fair, which is a gathering of gays, lesbians and other creatures of a similar bent
This year we went there again and even though I had an idea from last time of what was waiting for us, it took my breath away. The gentlemen have upped the ante since last time. For instance, it seemed that instead of shaking hands they were shaking penises! I didn't have the courage to photograph everything, fellatio for example, but at least here's a sample...

It's kind of a custom here that when someone has a birthday, you secretly invite all their mates, throw a party and then wait in the dark till they come home, say from work, and scare the living daylights out of them. I always figured it doesn't have to be such a pleasant surprise every time, when the person comes home knackered, or God forbid brings a lover along or something. But what Jeff told me is even worse than anything I ever came up with.
He got invited to one of those once and they were waiting upstairs in the dark for the birthday girl. They heard her come in and go into the kitchen downstairs. She just wasn't coming up, so it started getting awkward. So they all went down, walked into the kitchen, someone flipped the light on and … the girl was lying on the kitchen floor, skirt hitched up, knickers pulled down and… now this is turning into an adults-only show… the dog was licking her…
The rammed cop
One more story from Jeff, a bit less X-rated. One day he's driving his Monte Carlo from '85, which weighs about two and a half tons, has a four-litre V8 and pretty lousy brakes for all that power and weight (and of course it guzzles like a cow). So Jeff's driving right behind a cop car and all of a sudden the cop stomps on the brakes and stops dead, because he spotted some homeless guy. Unfortunately, the cops around here don't drive cars from '85, or Favorits, so their brakes work rather well (among other gadgets, like a laptop hooked up to a central database and so on). Jeff and I always used to argue about whether that Monte Carlo of his could lock up into a skid. I kept telling him there was no way he could get those half-a-metre-wide tyres to skid. He managed it. Later he told me that when you're hurtling into a cop's boot, every molecule in your body concentrates in your right leg to stop that monster, even if it costs you a broken leg. It didn't help. Funnily enough he did get the wheels to skid, but he rammed the cop anyway. And now comes the best part. The cop got out, walked firmly over to Jeff, Jeff rolled down the window and the cop says: “Sorry, my apologies, I forgot to turn on my lights.”
Lousy Japanese
The title of this one came to me ages ago, when I found out why it's cold in San Francisco all the bloody time. It's the cold ocean currents that flow here from Japan. That's why whenever I wake up at night freezing, I curse the Japanese for what they keep sending us over here :).
Beer statistics
So I come into work one day and our CFO shouts at me: “Hey, I had no idea anyone could booze more than the Irish!”
Then he showed me a newspaper article called “Germans easing off the gas” or something equally “clever”, and it was about how the krauts don't booze like they used to and have dropped all the way to third! place in the drinkers' rankings with I-don't-know-how-many hectolitres of beer per head per year. Second were the Irish and first, as you'd expect, the Czechs! So not just hockey, but beer too :).

Version 1.
So I'm driving Jeff and Haydn back from dinner at a Japanese restaurant, I'm waiting at a red light at a spot where there's only one lane in my direction and you can't see well enough to the left to turn right on red (otherwise it's normally allowed). When it went green I pull away normally and then there's a hell of a bang. To my right, a Vietnamese guy in a little Honda had squeezed into the space made by the bus stop, and you couldn't see the car in the dark, since it's lower than the view out of the window of my “tractor”. He wanted to slip past me and turn right before I pulled away. He didn't make it. So we exchanged driving licence numbers, insurance details and addresses, figuring our insurance companies would sort it out. In San Francisco you don't call the cops to accidents without injuries.
Before we drove off, I checked out the damage on his Honda (a banged-up driver's door and fender); I wasn't in the mood to inspect my own right side.
The next morning in daylight I finally worked up the courage and went to assess the damage. For a moment I thought I'd just dreamt the whole crash! There was ABSOLUTELY not a single scratch on that car! Nowhere! All I found was a trace of paint on the tyre, and I deduced I'd simply caught him with my fully turned right front wheel, as if I wanted to drive over him :). So all I had to do was get the front axle geometry realigned and the car is as good as new. You might think what saved my neck was sitting in a big car, except if I'd had a car as small as the Vietnamese guy's and hadn't been sitting a metre higher than him, I'd have seen him and wouldn't have hit him :(.
As we were leaving the scene of the accident I was pretty down, but Haydn cheered me up by declaring: ”It's his fault anyway, the idiot shouldn't have bought such a crappy little car!” :).
Later, when I was dealing with the insurance company, it turned out that the name and address the guy had me copy off his insurance card were a woman's name and address, which caused confusion, since the person in the Honda was clearly of the male gender (and not just gender :)).

Version 2.
So I'm driving from one bar to another, cheered up by a couple of beers, with Jeff and Haydn in the car, and naturally the mood is merry, so I'm not paying much attention to where I'm going. I'm stopped at a red and Jeff suddenly says: “Hey man, it's better to go right here!” So I slam it into first and lurch off to the right. A bang like a cannon shot and only now do I see that there'd been a car to my right, quite sensibly trying to get around me via the bus stop and turn right while I was sitting at the red going straight. It's not entirely legal, but for the sake of keeping traffic flowing it's normally done and tolerated. Of course, being all fired up and pulling away sharply, I gave the poor guy a proper whack. He was completely miserable about it and I had egg on my face. So we exchanged insurance numbers and went our separate ways. I didn't drink anything else that night, even though we hit loads of bars, and since then I seriously don't drive when I drink or the other way round. I took it as a warning from above. Luckily it only cost me $60 for the front axle alignment…

Quiz:
Guess which version I gave the insurance company when they called saying the conversation would be recorded? My conscience is clean though, because it came out that the Vietnamese guy didn't even have a driving licence and the car was registered and insured in his mum's name….

This is just to show that sometimes excessive politeness is worse than good old Czech rudeness.
So I'm riding the minibus from the airport, the one that shuttles people to the car rental places, and the driver stopped at one of the stops. A Japanese woman got on with her husband and immediately ran up to the driver saying someone was following them in a car and that he (the driver) had to explain where we were going so she could explain it to the people following them. So the driver, amazingly, patiently explained it to her, she didn't get it, so he explained it again, she ran off to explain it to those people, who had driven off in the meantime, so she wanted to call them from outside on her mobile, but couldn't get through, so she got back on the bus and in her absolutely lousy English explained to the driver that we had to wait until they drove a loop around the airport and got back in behind the bus, all the while arguing with her husband and shuffling dozens of pieces of luggage around and dialling numbers on her mobile... And the driver was still totally cool about it! I was already fuming, the people around seemed pretty calm, and the broad couldn't be rattled at all anyway. I reckon we definitely stood there long enough for someone (if this had been in the Czech Republic) to get up, grab the woman by the collar and dispatch her, luggage and all, back onto the pavement. Here nobody said a word. Awful!

On that same trip, on the way back to the airport, I missed the right motorway exit without noticing and I'm cruising along nice and relaxed, thinking how well I'd timed it and how rough those people in the opposite direction have it, stuck in a jam like that. I'd missed the exit by about twenty kilometres, so it didn't take long before I was enjoying that jam myself :(. When you're sitting in a column of cars moving at turbo-turtle speed and you've first got 20 minutes till departure, then 15, 10, 5, you're not exactly in a singing mood. On top of that, I had no idea what would happen if I missed the flight. I'd flown on a later plane plenty of times before, but I'd always managed to call them in time and change the booking. This time, naturally, my mobile battery died…
Well, in the end I crawled to the airport, returned the car and found the next flight home. At United they told me they'd of course be happy to take me, but only if there was room. It was leaving in less than two hours. The next one wasn't until nine in the evening. Luckily I squeezed onto that first one…

The weather's totally crap, I spend the whole night freezing like a turd in the snow.
In the morning I come up to the car and I see that some American wanted to prove to me that things with the Czechs actually aren't that bad. Let me explain. I wrote somewhere in the previous stories about how in the Czech Republic somebody's car gets broken into every five minutes and every single Czech knows at least five people whose whole car has already been stolen (if he isn't one of them himself), and how good it is here in that respect, that I'd forgotten to lock the car plenty of times and left my mobile on the seat on top of that and nothing happened.
This time I hadn't forgotten anything on the seat and the car was locked, alarm on. And still in the morning I had a pile of broken glass on the back seat, a hole in the window, and my CD collection, the one I was so proud of and because of which I got myself a proper CD player for the car, was fucked. The radio, oddly enough, stayed there, even though I hadn't taken the removable panel off. There were about 80 of those CDs, the vast majority of them burned (i.e. unsellable) and the rest were Czech CDs. I wonder what that moron's going to do with them. What's certain is that I'll have a hard time getting those Czech CDs here, and oddly enough those were the ones I listened to the most (it's interesting how a person only appreciates his own culture once he lives in someone else's. If anybody feels like burning something for me and sending it, I'd reward him royally... Or ftp?)
So I drive off to the garage, pretty out of tune, to ask straight away why that water's leaking out of the engine and what it's going to cost.
It turned out it's a faulty water pump, and replacing it is going to cost me $600 (24,000 CZK). The little window only $70. Not great, especially considering that yesterday another garage called me to say that fixing my bike will cost about $500 :-(.
And then a phone call, that the Internet is down at work. Considering that the headquarters of the whole corporation, where I also have an office, hosts the central accounting server, it's a screw-up the size of a house, because all the hospitals across California (well, not all of them, just the 10 or so that fall under us :).) can't get to the accounting. So of course I race over there to put the fire out somehow.
At the same time people are moving into the newly opened building in San Leandro today and I'm supposed to hook up 15 computers, a server, the Internet and basically the whole network for them. Today, so they can start working right away.
And as if that wasn't enough, Jeff also called me to say that given the situation in Afghanistan they're speeding up the repairs on the ship and they're shipping off to war. So in the end I'll be left here completely alone…
When I got to my mail later that day, the first mail that came in was from some woman and it just had the question "How are you?" in it. I barely managed to keep myself from getting filthy and just briefly described to her what's going on here right now…
A good day
And because life always keeps everything in balance, this was my day about a week later. I sort of wrote down everything I have to do and arrange and where, sorted it by priority and crossed out all the nonsense and little things, like somebody's printer or email not working. To the rest I added the estimated number of hours it would take me and added it all up. It came out that four people working 10 hours a day would take about a month. Most of those things, however, should have been sorted out yesterday at the latest. I decided it was time to lay out to management what I'd suspected for ages. That I simply can't do it on my own. Even though one week, for instance, I counted 72 working hours…
So I go to the boss with that neat little table (I only ever go to him when I need something and it regularly ends up in a conversation about golf, Anna Kournikova or beer anyway. Considering that nobody in the whole corporation has a clue about computers, it practically never happens that he'd come to me with some order :)). So I go to him and show him the table and the following came out of it:
1. I can hire two assistants who'll do the dirty work for me. One for northern California, the other for southern
2. So that I can do some things from home, the company will pay for a fixed Internet line at home too
3. I can get myself a Palm on the company's money (one of those palm-sized computers, in the end I bought a Sony for about $440)
4. For a lot of the things I've been doing myself so far I can hire outside companies
All of a sudden I felt terribly important again :). The best thing about it is that I can dump on those two I'll be commanding all the stuff I don't like doing myself :). Above all dealing with matters like:
- a woman calls me to say her email doesn't work at all. So I drive over there, sit down at it, try to send a test mail, it goes out beautifully and comes in beautifully. So I say to her (trying in vain to suppress the irony in my voice) whether it maybe isn't because nobody's sending her any mails :). She didn't find it that funny. Everybody around did though, it went around as a funny story from the set.
- then another woman catches me somewhere else, again that her mails aren't arriving at all and that it's not like with Mrs. Y, where people do send her mails but they don't arrive. So just for practice I ask what program she uses for mailing. Everybody's supposed to use MS Outlook, unfortunately they confuse it with Outlook Express. And she tells me she uses Windows. So I didn't say anything anymore and went to have a look. I launch Outlook, within a minute about 80 mails jumped in, the oldest half a year old. So I just say to her (again with that badly hidden contempt) that maybe it would be a good idea to launch the program for picking up the mails first…
- another time a guy in LA is bitching that somebody deleted all his files on the server. So I go take a look and find out that (God knows why) he yanked the cable out of the network card and stuck the telephone cable in instead…
- when people ask me how to save a file to a floppy, I just keep quiet and remember the days when I had the holy patience to spend all day teaching 50- to 60-year-old secretaries from Česká pojišťovna or, God forbid, the Ministry of Transport how to use a mouse and that you end a paragraph with the enter key.
When I read this back, I probably come across as a conceited ignorant, but I'm not. It's just a question of priorities. For instance I have this choice of what to do with the last hour of time before flying back to SF:
A: explain to Mrs. Smith how to save a file to a floppy, or that instead of saving a file to a floppy, putting the floppy in an envelope and the envelope in the post, she can send it to Mrs. Jones by mail. If I don't do it, she'll either figure it out herself or ask the Mexican who comes here to clean
B: Configure the backups on the server properly, so that when the server dies, about 50 people don't lose all their data, because it'll still be on tape.
The choice is obvious. If Mrs. Smith is a sixty-year-old fat black woman, I go do the backup. If she's a slim, pleasant young lady (even a black one), the backup can wait :).
To get back to why that day was so good. All that horror with technical support for users, both on the phone and live, I'll be able to dump on those assistants.
And so I wouldn't run short of good news, the so-called FastTrak arrived in the post. That's a handy little box that I stick on the windscreen of the car (by the way, instead of "front window" Americans say "windshield" :)) and on all the bridges around here where you pay a toll I won't have to stop, hunt around the car for change and pay, but instead I just drive through a special lane without stopping, the box beeps and once a month they deduct it from my account. On top of that every crossing is 15 cents cheaper. I don't get how I managed a year here without it, when I drive across that bridge every day. In the afternoon I also went to the local office and ceremonially received a Social security number, something like our birth number, here though absolutely essential for any official step. See story number (I think) two.
The discovery of bread
If I said that the discovery of bread happened the same day, I'd probably be lying. Nevertheless it was a damned positive event too. Ever since the start of my travelling days the thing I've missed most of all on the road was Czech bread. Everywhere they only have those nasty soft loaves, you can't spread anything on it and when you squeeze 16 slices together it's worth one slice of Šumava. So I was suffering here. What's a person supposed to have for a snack when he's got no bread, right. We tried pretty much all of the 1126 kinds of bread they sell in the local supermarket and it was the very last one. It tastes almost like Šumava (or at least I'm consoling myself with that) and above all you can spread butter on it normally. Maybe even lard, but I guess you can't make that low-fat, so they don't sell it here at all.

Ever since puberty I'd wanted to go to some big concert. Except at the beginning there was no dough or whatever, and later the concerts were always in the summer. So I missed Pink Floyd while in Florida, U2 the first time in Turkey, the second time in Russia, for R.E.M. I even had the tickets and went there with a girl from Ústí, except then they decided not to come. They were probably off on a trip to Lake Mácha and didn't feel like coming back.
Here a person has the advantage that a lot of these stars are actually at home here, so they live around the corner and play here relatively more often. So I've already managed to miss U2 at a stadium about 20 km from here, Green Day about 1 km from here, Depeche Mode about 5 km from here and a load of others I luckily don't even know about. Now U2 are going to play right at the stadium I can see from my office (when I happen to be there). Sounds promising, right. Except it's already sold out.
Suzanne Vega really grabbed me back in high school. Not so much anymore, but I went anyway. Káča loves her, so she kicked me into going. It was in a theatre sort of along the lines of the National, only 350 years newer, we were sitting on about the third floor and Vega was so tiny she'd have fitted in a matchbox. She's ugly anyway and she was dressed like a grey mouse :). Well, but it was pretty good. Especially when she played the songs I remember from high school (about two or three :))
Jeff's spending mood
Right after the attack on the Twin Towers Jeff decided he'd save the American economy by starting to spend. He probably didn't know what to buy for himself, so he started showering everyone around him with gifts. One by one he bought for the kitchen (even though he practically doesn't live here):
• a set of champagne glasses
• a set of wine glasses
• a set of lemonade glasses
• a set of glasses for shit
• a set of normal plates
• a set of deep plates
• a set of bowls
• a fruit bowl (and he keeps filling it, yum)
• a set of about 15 knives, with a holder
• new light fittings.
Then it turned out there was nowhere to put the dishes, in the kitchen there was just a board nailed to the wall for the dishes, so he bought, brought and installed
• A kitchen unit
• A food cupboard.
When it was Haydn's birthday, he bought him a leather jacket. So that Joe wouldn't feel left out, he bought him one too.
The next day he decided that wasn't fair and bought Káča a fur coat. A proper real black three-quarter-length fur coat with the fur on the inside. And Alex, so she wouldn't feel left out, one too, a bit different.
Every once in a while he also drags us all off to some pub for a meal and won't let anybody but himself pay. The other day I told him that he's a total nutcase, but that it's quite pleasant to be around him when he has an attack :).

I was having Internet installed in one of the hospitals, from a different provider than the one they'd had so far. So a guy shows up saying he'll hook it up. He dug around in the phone wires, ran around various buildings, called various places and never found the right cable. Says he has to call the local phone company that's in charge of the cabling, so they hook the right cable up right. Two weeks later a different guy shows up saying it's all done now and he'll just plug it in. Again he ran around, searched, measured, swore, called, found. Nada. They sent him two more buddies to help him out. They agreed the phone company hadn't hooked it up again. At least they plugged in and configured the router (a little box for about $500 (20,000 CZK) that the Internet runs through). Said next time it'd be a piece of cake.
Next time I was unfortunately away on a business trip. They just sent me a mail saying it's hooked up and working beautifully. So the next day I head over there to plug it in and get it off my back. So I hook everything up, reconfigure the server for the new Internet and nothing. So I call them asking what's going on. The lady on the other end of the line says she'll test it then. She connected to "my" router, checked and changed something there for a while and then says it's all perfectly fine now and I should give it a try. Nada. So I connected to that router myself and together we checked what she'd set up there. Nothing at all was set up there. So I did it myself following her instructions. Again nothing. So she connected again and insisted everything was fine. It was starting to seem weird to me, it sounded exactly as if she was connecting somewhere completely different from me. But that was impossible, since she was connecting to a router with the exact same IP address and password as me. And the password was something totally bizarre, like f3j6iojX, so there was no way it could be a coincidence. By then we were both desperate, so she said she'd escalate it.
Next day still nothing, so I call again. Some young kid. Same as yesterday, he did something, nothing showed up on my end. He kept telling me it wasn't possible, that my server was broken or something. So I connected a laptop to it. Again nothing. Then I secretly unplugged the router from every socket and, just to be sure, carried it off into another room :). Then I tell him to try connecting. And he says it's all cool, he's connected and it's working. And there it was. He was connecting somewhere completely different. That last technician wasn't any of the four who'd been there before, which is why he had no idea the router was already there. So he simply found the nearest phone switch room and installed a new router in it. He configured it exactly according to the instructions, just like his colleague did the previous one. Password included. And vanished. Considering this hospital is a complex of about 25 buildings, each with at least two phone switch rooms (or whatever you call that little room with all those wires...), it took me the whole afternoon to find that router. After that it was fine. I called them saying they'd run it into the wrong room, I hooked it up temporarily, they sent something like the eighteenth technician in a row, he ran it into the right room and the job was done.
The router they'd left there the first time I nicked, since they didn't miss it. A month and a bit later, when they set up a similar Internet connection at my home, I decided to make use of that nicked router. So I connect it to the computer and try to log into it. Surprisingly it worked on the very first try, so I'm poking around in it, switching it over to my connection and generally rummaging about in it. When it was all supposed to be done, I told it to restart and since then nothing. It didn't work at all anymore, I couldn't log back into it, nothing. So I gave up on it, used a different one for the Internet connection and forgot all about it. (By the way, that Internet connection is a 1.5 Mbps leased line, roughly 30 times faster than a modem, so now I watch the news on ČT1 over the Internet.)
The next day I overslept, so I didn't go straight to the office but stopped by at the above-mentioned hospital first. I always use that to cover up the fact that I only joined the working process at, say, ten, because at that hospital nobody knows a thing and when I turn up at the office at twelve, I just say I'm coming from the hospital :). I don't have a guilty conscience about it at all, because I usually end up stuck at the office till eight in the evening anyway, so it evens out and then some.
So anyway, I walk into that hospital and somebody tells me the Internet's down. So I took a look at it and found out it really was down, but the fault was somewhere outside our network, since the router showed the connection was broken. So I told them the provider was having some problems with it and they'd bring it back up in time. And I forgot about it. A couple of hours later I needed to check my mail and the Internet still wasn't working. So it started nagging at me, I look at that dead router and then it hit me. What an idiot, the way I'd laughed at those technicians for connecting to a different router, and I'd done the exact same thing! At the moment I was playing with my nicked router yesterday I was also connected to the Internet over the modem and by mistake I logged in not to the router sitting on my desk, but to the one that provides the connection for about fifty people in this hospital, and by rummaging around in it I screwed the whole thing up and disconnected not just myself from the router, but the entire hospital from the Internet! I tried to fix it myself for a while, but given the time pressure I decided to sprinkle ashes on my hedgehog, 'cause that's what I've got on my head these days, and to call those technicians to help me out of the mud. Luckily they've got dozens of them there, so I didn't get a single one of those who'd already been mixed up in it before. Fairly calmly we put it together and reconfigured the router back to its original state.

“Why do we spend youth chasing money and when we find it, we spend rest of life chasing youth”

I spotted this line on a billboard in town and it absolutely blew me away. It expresses the absurdity of the American lifestyle perfectly. It says roughly this:
“Why do we waste our whole youth chasing money, and when we have it, we then waste the whole rest of our life chasing youth”
That's the exact definition of an American's life. Their whole youth and productive years they don't live at all, they just sit at work from dawn till dusk so they can buy a bigger car, a bigger house and a prettier wife. They forgot long ago that work is only supposed to support life. They simply live only for work. And then when they finally have the cash, they pay for expensive plastic surgery, courses and generally try to pretend how terribly young and free they are and how they travel and so on… A sad story.

This happened about a year and a half ago back in Bohemia…
E a s t e r M o n d a y: 10.00–17.00 Clearing 2.5 tonnes of wood out of the shed at the cottage 17.00 Friend X calls that they wrecked a car in Moravia, could I come and pick it up... 17.10 – I hitch a borrowed trailer to my tiny little Peugeot 106. The trailer is heavier and 2 m longer than the car towing it. 17.20 – I go back for the forgotten strap to tie the crashed car to the trailer 17.30 – for 500 crowns I fill up the little car, plus another 100 for a motorway sticker, and haul the trailer to Prague (120 km) 18.30 – I borrow Martin's 21-year-old Audi off him, which can tow the trailer with the wreck on it. It hasn't got the electrics wired to the tow bar. 18.30–20.00 we wire up the electrics on Ječná street next to the tram tracks. Partly in the dark. (Thanks, Martin.) 20.10 I fill the Audi up. 800 crowns. Luckily it runs on gas. 22.30 I'm lost in the fog. That is, in Brno. 23.00 20 km north of Brno I find the car and discover that it wasn't friend X who crashed (the one I'm driving all this way for :))) ), but her sis. What's more, both of them are already in Prague, because they got bored of waiting. The car is perfectly drivable... well, it's got hardly any snout left, but it drives :) 24.00 The Audi ran out of gas on the motorway. Almost no petrol either. 24.15 Running on fumes alone we reach a petrol station, sweating at the thought of pushing the Audi (2000 kg), the trailer (600 kg) and the Felicia on it (1000 kg). I shell out another 800 crowns for gas. 3.00 In Prague we find out that you can put a crashed car in a guarded car park, but not on a trailer. Parking an 80,000-crown trailer on the street in Prague is idiotic. So after ten hours of driving I've still got another 120 km ahead of me back to the trailer's owner. 3.50 I wait at the petrol station for a quarter of an hour for the attendant to show up. I fill the Audi up again, this time for 530 crowns. Average consumption with the trailer – 18.5 l per 100 km! 5.15 – I return the trailer in good order. I have to sleep at the cottage, I wouldn't have made it any further. After four energy drinks my heart is pounding like mad, yet I fall asleep from exhaustion. 12.30 I wake up and find out I have to race to Prague to make it to the dentist, where I've had an appointment for a month. 16.00 I find out that instead of the trailer's registration papers I gave back the Audi's, and I didn't give back the straps at all. The owner needs the trailer's papers on Thursday, I'm going there on Friday... About the Audi's papers I tactfully keep quiet in front of Martin... 16.50 I find out I was supposed to file my tax return and pay the tax today. A screw-up the size of a house. Too late. 17.30 I find out I don't know a thing for tomorrow's exam. I was supposed to spend all day today studying... 19.15 I can't find the piece of paper with the address where I'm supposed to show up for a consultation at 20.00. 19.30 The cops nabbed me, I didn't make it through that amber light... They kindly let me keep my licence after a breath test and a lot of sweet-talking, for a grand they even drove with me all the way to the ATM :-((( 20.00–23.00 At the consultation I must have babbled such rubbish that we wrapped it up after just three hours instead of the planned eight….

The Bay Bridge is the bridge I drive across to work every day and, as I think I've already written here, it's about ten kilometres long.
Twice now there's been word that terrorists are planning something on it. The first time nothing happened at first, but then I get home and Haydn says: “Did you hear about the Bay Bridge?” I say I hadn't, it scared the hell out of me. So I go watch the news and there's a car smashed to bits and they were talking about fatalities. But it wasn't any terrorists, it was plain old sloppy work! To reinforce the bridge against future earthquakes they were adding cross girders about every hundred metres, basically a giant chunk of iron across the road a few metres above the drivers' heads. The road has five lanes, so that girder weighs a good few tonnes. And it simply fell on a passing car. It looked like it had come out of a crusher at the scrapyard...
The second time terrorists were making threats again and since it was on CNN from the mouth of the head of the FBI and then I even saw it on ČT1, I decided not to risk anything that evening and to take the ferry. I couldn't find on the Internet where and when the ferry runs, so I just went looking for it. So I'm wandering around the harbour, can't find anything, so I stopped by some bloke and ask him. He thought about it a bit and says: “Well, young man, a ferry to San Francisco? You just missed it, the last one left... (he looked at his watch) ... in 1956!” :).

In California rain is about as common as locusts back home. Everybody knows it exists, but when it starts falling from the sky, everyone gawps like crows.
About a week ago it suddenly started raining (the first time in some 5 months) and because it doesn't rain for so long, all the oil from the cars soaks into the road and the first rain flushes it up to the surface. Except the good folks of Kocourkov are simply used to driving the same way all the time (badly) and it somehow doesn't sink in that in the rain you might want to slow down and be careful. Especially because of those oil slicks. So around noon on that first rainy day I'm listening to the radio and there was a piece called: “ABS is no substitute for caution in the rain” – ABS is that anti-skid system on the brakes. The whole piece was just about how to drive in the rain. If they broadcast that in Europe, it could only be as satire. Sentences like “If it's raining, there is water on the road. Water lengthens the car's braking distance. You should therefore drive more slowly and keep a greater distance from the car in front” etc. Basically stuff that even a three-year-old kid in Čermná knows when riding a bike across the village green.
At the end they topped it off with a completely unbelievable statistic from that day. On a normal dry day the traffic police deal with an average of 38 accidents for the whole day. This was noon and the fresh statistic for the day said... 480 accidents...

For about twenty years now the whole of America has been caught up in a mania for chasing miles.
But let's start from the beginning. A credit card, in the original sense of the word, isn't a card linked to your bank account, it's a card that entitles you to spend money you don't have at all. And then pay it off for long years at a hellish interest rate. To lure more people into this trap, one of the credit card companies came up with the following trick together with an airline. For every dollar spent on a ticket with airline A, paid for with a card from credit card company B, the customer gets one mile, and for the miles they've saved up they get a free ticket of their choice every now and then, with airline A of course. A and B split the cost. In time all the credit card companies caught on, and now it's got to the point where any spending on a credit card earns you miles, even if I just buy potatoes.
Given that I spend roughly 2-3 thousand a month for the company and then they reimburse me, I could already have had a free ticket home and back, if only I'd had one of those credit cards. Somehow it went against the grain with me to spend money I don't have. I also didn't know that if you pay those debts off within three weeks, they don't charge you any interest.
The other day I call the bank to ask why they'd deducted a pretty hefty sum from my account out of nowhere. They explained that work had sent me my pay twice, so they took it back once. That scared me a bit, that they can do that without me knowing...
Then the guy suddenly started buttering me up, saying I'm a solid customer and whether I wouldn't like to switch my account to VIP, that I'd get some stuff for free. So I went straight on the attack, asking whether I couldn't also get a credit card. Getting your first one is actually pretty hard, because you don't have any so-called credit history, which is a central record of whether you've always paid your debts on time.
And he says absolutely, he'll put me straight through to the credit card department. There they buttered me up again, she immediately offered me some platinum one that has a million perks, like free insurance on a rental car, a nearly free ticket twice a year for someone flying with me, etc. Plus 5000 miles right off the bat as a sweetener. So we filled out a roughly 30-minute questionnaire over the phone and they said it would come in the post within a week.
A week later I got a letter saying I don't meet the requirements not only for the platinum card, but not even for the bronze or the stone one...
h4. The price of goods
I always thought the price of goods in a shop was derived from production costs, plus some margin for shipping and selling. In Kocourkov that's definitely not the case. The price here is strictly derived from how much the stupid customer is willing to pay. So for instance something I can buy at a Safeway supermarket in San Francisco costs half as much when I buy it in the desert, because people have less money there. Then I see them selling some daft plastic holder for a roll of paper towels, the only difference being that it's got a little arm that holds the roll down when you want to tear off a piece while holding, say, a pot in your other hand. Production costs obviously a few cents, it's just a piece of plastic. Price – $18.
I read somewhere that in 1930 the average amount spent on advertising was about 5% of the product's price. Today it's 40% on average...
h4. Haydn
Haydn's name has come up a couple of times already in previous stories, so it would probably be proper to explain who he is. He's our new flatmate, who decided to live apart from his wife for a month so they'd appreciate each other more, so he asked Jeff if he could temporarily use his room. He's been there about three months now and is planning to winter there :). Oddly enough nobody minds in the slightest, since he's an absolute riot and has brought a fresh breeze into the flat. He works as head of the sales department at a company that wholesales sanitary ware (I think that's the technical term for all those taps and washbasins, right?). But sanitary ware imported from Italy, France, Germany, which is why the average price of a lousy tap is about $450 (16,000 crowns).
Haydn is quite an interesting character. He was born in London, at fourteen he gave up on school, at fifteen he left home. Then he and his mates stole cars for fun and drove around in them, until one day he got caught. Then he lived a year in Israel, two years in Taiwan as an English teacher, and ten years ago he moved to California. For a few years he ran a painting business here off the books; the other day he told me how they once painted the whole outside of some woman's house and collected $25,000 in cash (about a million crowns), of which $20,000 was pure profit. Between two of them. Maybe I should take up painting instead. And then they blew it all.
Seven years ago he got married. After that trial month of separation from his wife they both found out they're actually better off apart, so they're getting divorced. Oddly enough completely without arguments or fights, they go out for lunch and to the cinema together as if nothing had happened.
Even though Haydn has been here ten years and works legally, even though he's married, out of the blue he got a letter from immigration saying he has to leave the USA within 14 days! They didn't give him a green card because they found out he has that blot on his record in England with the cars.
About two months ago Haydn's brother and cousin flew in from London for a visit and set off to conquer a Californian five-thousander. On the first day they climbed up to about 3,500 m above sea level and set up a high camp there. On the second day, at about five in the morning, they started climbing the rest, already on the glacier. After four hours of brutal climbing in freezing cold and wind they decided to dump their backpacks there and take only food and drink. So they opened the packs and Haydn's brother, being the oldest, says: „Lads, I just wanted to tell you that next time you're planning an expedition like this, the most important thing of all is to work out your supplies properly. And then not to forget to bring them...“ The idiots simply hadn't brought a single scrap of grub. So they decided to carry on not only without backpacks, but without food too. There was plenty of snow to drink.
The whole climb took another 14 hours. Several times they had to cross ice fields, which Haydn described like this (a literal translation; the word fucking occurs even more often in English than „vole“ does in Czech):
„So in front of us is this fucking ice field that we have to fucking cross. It's only about three metres wide at the narrowest point, but then it widens out to a fucking hundred metres, the whole thing's about half a kilometre long, fucking steep and above all it ends in a fucking drop, about a kilometre down onto fucking rocks. Your foot slips and you're fucking done for, you're going down on your fucking arse and then you get a fucking flight before you smash into fucking bits at the bottom!“
So that was a sample of a literal translation of spoken English; don't think it's because Haydn is an ex-painter. Every single bloke here talks like that over a beer.
So there they are, walking without food in that freezing cold, and at that ice field they had to decide how to get across, there was no other way. They had no gear like crampons or ice axes, so the only chance was to jump it. And Haydn's cousin says he'll jump first. By the way, he's sixteen. So they threw the backpacks across, the cousin took a run-up, jumped and of course came up short. He slipped, landed on his arse and shot off like on a slide straight down towards that drop.
Haydn said he was already imagining what he'd tell the boy's parents. Luckily, since he still had momentum from the jump, he wasn't going straight down but diagonally, and about ten metres lower it threw him out on the other side.
And then they climbed and climbed until they got to a spot where there was absolutely no way further. And still a long way from the summit. Since they had a rubbish map (or none at all, I don't remember now), they'd set off up the wrong side of the mountain.
The next day they somehow managed it, with the same suffering, in tandem with some Franta from Prague and his wife.
P.S. When I climbed Shasta myself a few months later, it didn't seem anywhere near as dramatic as when Haydn told it. But I did puke my guts out up there from altitude sickness too :-) See the story Terčík

It's clear that Kocourkovians are a plastic nation. Plastic cups, cutlery, plates and thousands of other single-use things, I know all that. But when I saw at one petrol station in the desert how the chrome was peeling off a tap and underneath it...PLASTIC! I nearly needed reviving.
And they also sell hard liquor here (vodka, for instance) in plastic bottles...

I needed about 50 computers, so I headed off to an auction again and bought them plus a whole load of other junk for the network and so on. The worse part was that I bought them up here in northern California and needed them down south in LA, i.e. about 600 km from here. It might seem daft to buy 50 computers that far from where they'll be used, but I needed a few of them here too and down there hadn't been an auction for ages and all that. I could have (and me, the idiot, should have) hired a moving company, sent them there to pick the computers up, then hopped on a bird and just supervised the unloading in LA. But I thought it might be quite a laugh to arrange such a long trip, so I decided to haul it down there myself. And I naively thought somebody would appreciate how I'd saved on the movers.
The auction was on Thursday, it's always held in some big conference hall of a fancy hotel, whereas the computers and the other junk are somewhere in a warehouse or still right in the offices of the bust company. You can then pick them up on Friday, Saturday morning and sometimes on Monday too.
I didn't fancy going there on Friday, I planned it so that I'd pick them up on Monday morning and carry straight on to LA, have them unloaded there and spend the rest of the week installing. Originally I wanted to rent a moving truck about the size of an Avia. Over the weekend, though, I mulled it over in my head and came up with a devilish scheme (haha).
I'd have a tow hitch fitted to my car, the company would pay for it, instead of an expensive truck I'd rent a cheap trailer (what I actually needed couldn't even be called a little cart any more), and I'd even make money on it, because the company pays me 33 cents for every mile driven in a private car. And instead of rattling along those 1600 km in a truck I'd be sitting in the comfort of my own car, listening to my favourite CDs, it just sounded idyllic to me.
So on Monday morning I got to work, the boss wasn't there, so I had nobody to talk it over with, and I started ringing round the places that fit tow hitches. Either they didn't have a hitch for my car, or they had one but could only fit it on Wednesday, or they'd have to order it etc. In the end I found one place that would fit it and another that would sell it to me, so I booked it in for noon. The computers could be picked up until five, the fitting takes about an hour, the drive to the computer warehouse just under an hour, so loads of time.
The fitting took nearly two hours. Renting the trailer, given the total illiteracy of the black guy working there, the total incompatibility of the electrical connectors and the lack of the relevant adaptors, which I had to hunt down all over the place, took nearly two hours instead of the planned ten minutes. So by the time I set off it was about half four.
Given that I vaguely remembered one of the conditions in the auction contract being that goods not collected by the set time (Mon 5 pm) are forfeited with no right to compensation. About $12,000 already paid was hanging on it, and as you can imagine they wouldn't have praised me at the company for losing that. I immediately remembered how the other day they fired a woman from a pretty senior position just for blabbing to someone about how much somebody earned. So it was simple, either I make it, or I'll be flying home soon. Home. To Bohemia. And I didn't fancy that yet. The trailer was about 6 m long, maybe half a metre taller than the car (and that's already pretty tall) and a bit wider than the car. You just need a bit of room for 50 computers and 17" monitors. On its arse it said Maximum speed 40 mph (64 kmh). The whole way I was doing about 80 mph (130 kmh) with a lump in my throat and my arse clenched as if I were auditioning for the lead role in Konflíkáři II. I told myself it's better to be locked up for speeding than fired for being an idiot.
I got to the warehouse at about 5.20 pm.
Not a soul anywhere. I bang, I ring, I honk, I phone all over the place, nothing. Oh shit.
Dejected, I drove that giant trailer all the way back home, where in the morning I'd said goodbye to everyone for a week, laboriously found a place to park the car with the trailer and went to bed with a heavy heart.
The next morning the auction company calls me (they're based somewhere in Chicago or something), because I'd left them about 30 desperate messages the day before. I could barely speak, waiting for the verdict. It went:
Not guilty! Sure, I can pick it up today until 4. Phewwwwww.
So I drove down there nice and easy, had it loaded nice and easy, or rather loaded it myself, since all the helpers were only there until Monday, and on top of that the warehouse boss gave me a load of stuff people hadn't collected for free. Obviously I don't go trumpeting that at work, right. So if anyone needs anything computer-ish, I've got piles of it :-)
And then I jumped in the car and set off towards Los Angeles, „yeaah, to Los Angeles“. I was loving it, that I'd finally get to use those 300 horses I cart around with me all the time and all six pots (that is, the six-cylinder engine :))
It takes about 6-7 hours by car to LA. It goes through the desert and big mountains. In the mountains I found out what it's like to drive in a lane other than the left one. Even though there were five lanes, I had to shamefully slot into the far right one, among the wheezing trucks. I don't have quite enough horses to fly up those dreadful hills with three tonnes behind me.
Well, to sum it up. Driving 1920 km in three days, half of that with a trailer (luckily it could be returned in LA, so for the trip to the desert and back home I was rid of it) is a stupid idea. Even at 33 cents a mile with a tow hitch thrown in. Next time I'm just hiring movers, even if they cost a million. Especially because, as I've mentioned here already, the water pump died on me on the way and replacing it costs $600, which the company no longer intends to pay for. All they did was deduct about three days of holiday I owed them. The only positive thing about the whole business is a computer for peanuts and a 19" monitor, which I got for the price of the 17" ones (about $40), because they'd run out of those. If I hadn't driven my own car, I'd have flown back and would therefore have had to give the monitor to somebody in LA...

Once we had Lily for the weekend, which I took as a good excuse to visit the Great America amusement park, the Matějská fair. I'd driven past a few times and looked enviously at those sky-high roller coasters and other rides. I'd once seen coupons on Coke cans for a big discount, since the entry fee is dear as hell. So in the morning I even ran to the shop to find these Cokes. Then the biggest problem was who'd drink that muck. In the end I think we poured it out.
At the Matějská I made straight for the biggest roller coaster, which they'd named Top Gun, after that film about fighter jets. I thought the name was just a cheap advertising gimmick. When I then had a ride on it, I felt damn similar to how you'd feel after a dogfight in a fighter jet. They strap you in with steel hoops around your shoulders and belly, and standing up, mind you, and then it takes off and from the first bend everyone's just praying for it to be over. It runs like a little train on rails, except there's just the one rail, hanging twenty metres above the ground, twisted every which way, and the little train twists around it going at an insane speed. The whole thing only lasted about a minute, maybe not even that, but it was enough to wrench my neck, and then I couldn't turn it for a week. But I could turn my whole body, sure.
Then we also went on some water rides, so Lily could enjoy herself too, since we were there because of her, right :). They don't let kids on these coasters.
It was one of those peaceful rides where you get into a little boat hollowed out of wood and the channel carries you along through the ferns, nice and calm. Then all of a sudden it came out of a bend, and there was this enormous structure towering up to the sky, I'm calmly scoffing a hot dog and thinking: "Aha, that's part of one of those roller coasters, we'll go under it and laugh at the people screaming up there." When the little boat hooked onto that structure by its underside and started climbing, the laughter left me. I put the hot dog down on the bench (never to see it again) and grabbed hold of Lily. It carried us up to the top and then dropped the boat down an almost vertical chute straight down! When the boat hit the pond at full pelt down there, the laughter left the gawkers on the path 10 metres away too, along with the shower they got. Luckily it was scorching, so over the next few hours in the sun we almost dried out. Lily was fine, because she was wearing one of those nappies that, when you throw them in a water tank, the tank's left without water and you can't wring a drop out of the nappy (we all know that from the ads).
Another ride I'd been itching to try was the free fall. It's this tower, from the length of the fall I worked out it's about 70 m tall, they take you up there strapped to a seat and then they just let the seat drop in free fall towards the ground. And down below they've already got big snow scrapers to scrape off the ones who didn't manage to brake :). No, the seat is stuck on a tube from behind and just above the ground it brakes hydraulically. Usually.
So I was a hero and got on it. It took us up, and at the top there's this dramatic pause where you enjoy the view into the distance and forget why you're up there. (I even managed to photograph it, the view.) And then all of a sudden they let you go.
You know that feeling when you're driving and you hit one of those bumps and for half a second you feel like your stomach has moved into your lungs? Well, that's exactly what it was like, except it didn't last half a second but about an hour (at least that's how it felt to me) and my stomach had plenty of time to move all the way up into my throat. Before I got on it, I thought the fall would be great and the only annoying bit would be the sharp braking. Wrong. I've never wished for anything more than for the damn thing to finally brake.
Lily then fell asleep on Káča's lap on a bench, so I wandered round the park on my own, and even though all the rides are free (after you've paid the insane entry fee), I didn't go on Top Gun or the free fall again.
I was gawking at one water ride where, similarly to us in the hollowed-out boat, they dropped a whole punt full of people into the water. I was standing on the bridge that spanned exactly the spot where the punt hurtles into the water, a lovely view of other people's misfortune. I thought, now it's my turn to laugh. So I'm watching the falling punt, the screaming people, and laughing at them. A second later they were laughing at me. You know that saying, he who laughs last... I hadn't noticed the sign Warning, splash zone, and when that punt hit the water it miraculously emptied the whole pond and in a second moved it above my head. It was like standing right under Niagara. My laboriously dried clothes.... The mobile in my pocket... the car remote. Well, I just had to start laughing :). What else can you do :).

Haydn dragged me off to a climbing course in an indoor gym once. The huge advantage is that the gym is about five minutes' walk from our place and they're open daily till eleven at night. It's a former factory and there must be well over a hundred routes altogether all over the walls. They're numbered by difficulty and there's a rope hanging at each one, so the only thing you need is one of those harnesses round your backside, shoes and a partner to belay you. Harnesses and shoes they lend out, partners not.
So we went through that hour-long course, where they explained to us how to tie the rope and generally how not to kill yourself, it was pretty useful, though of course I underestimated it at first. And then we were climbing like spiders, the easy ones first, then harder and harder, over overhangs and so on. I'd never have believed how fast the strength runs out of your fingers.
During that course the bloke explained to us that every time we come we'll have to show we still know what to do with the rope and then they'll let us in. And in a few months, once one of those checkers decides we could do it in our sleep, they'll give us an orange pro card and we can walk in without being checked.
When we were there for about the third time, Haydn was smiling at some pretty girlie, and it turned out she was the checker, and since women go for Haydn, she just issued him a pro card like it was nothing. So now when we show up, we stroll in like total big shots on our pro cards and then flop around on the walls like a dachshund after a retraining course :).
If it wasn't so damn expensive, it'd be quite a fun sport. In the mornings it's half price, but I can't turn up at work after lunch too often. They always think I was off putting out some problem in another building anyway, but still :).

While I was hunting for that pump for my car, I also swung by Nissan directly. Right in the doorway I asked whether they sell parts there and the bloke sent me somewhere else. (not "somewhere" but to another building :) . So just in passing I ask him how much this new X-Terra costs, which is a gorgeous sporty jeep from Nissan with a really properly sporty look. Well, he pricked his ears up straight away and called some other bloke, and that one no longer knew that I'd come in to ask about some lousy spare part, all he heard was that I'm interested in the second most expensive car they've got in stock. So he immediately launched into his sales litany, ran off to get the keys, I told him at first it wasn't worth the bother, but he wouldn't take no for an answer. So I let him get on with it and just slipped into the role of a young guy who's popped in to buy himself a car for a million and a half. Naturally I was interested in the most loaded version, 4x4, air-con, leather, stereo, automatic, 350 horses and so on, he had to move a few other cars out of the way, then he shoved the keys at me and off we went on a test drive. We drove into the yacht marina car park, there he sang its praises, how powerful it is and this and that, I asked him about the diesel version, he said it isn't made at all, but that this version has amazing fuel consumption, so I had a look in the papers and tell him that 16 litres per 100km isn't all that amazing, so he started praising other amazing things, like how they moved the spare wheel from the back door to under the floor, so I said it looks way better on the back door, then he goes that when you open the back door it's so cleverly high up that you don't bang your head (he was Japanese, about 155cm), so I marched up to that door and showed him it comes to about the middle of my forehead, so just perfect for banging, and so on. Then he pulled out a killer ace on me, that you can shift into 4x4 even while driving and that we can try it out. So I was driving again and when we were doing about 40 he grabbed the 4x4 lever and wanted to put it into all-wheel drive. An insane bang, then a racket like when a machinist drops a crate of monkey wrenches into his machine, the car lurched, the Japanese guy went white as chalk (I definitely couldn't have called him a yellowskin at that moment) and tore his hand off the shifter as if he'd got an electric shock. So I stopped, put it back into two-wheel drive and tell him, pretty much without any sympathy, that you usually can shift it while driving, but first you have to put it in neutral. I didn't have the heart to laugh at him. By the time we got back the colour had returned to his face (yellow), but he was pretty nervous. Then he dragged me into his office and that's when it got serious. First he offered me the X-Terra for 29,000 and 2,000 for my car in part exchange. I laughed in his face. In the end, by passive resistance, I got the price of my car up to 12,000 and the price of the X-Terra down to 28,000.
Then he just couldn't grasp why I wouldn't sign the contract, when he'd already offered me interest-free leasing and whatnot. Nobody here buys a car for cash, only on lease, so he thought I'd just walk in and buy the car like a bread roll and drive straight off in a new one. For a moment he even got me seriously thinking about it, but within the blink of an eye I talked myself out of it, that it's idiotic to blow that kind of money on a car when you can buy something much bigger for it. And also how long I'd be paying it off.
When I was leaving, the Japanese guy was nearly crying.

This is a story you'd expect in communist China or chaotic Russia, or maybe in Guatemala. It comes, however, from the terribly "advanced" USA (not for nothing nicknamed Kocourkov). I recently got a letter from the immigration office saying that my application has been granted and that my visa is valid until October 17th. That was around October 10th. So I'm staring at it, my heart pounding and I'm thinking that because of those damn terrorists they've now slashed all foreigners' visas horribly and they're trying to push us back into our caves (Americans are almost as stuck up as people from Prague, they think the only civilisation is in the USA, everybody else lives in caves and has dirt under their fingernails). But it seemed really odd to me, because in my passport it says it's valid for another two years or so. I decided to ignore the letter and wave the passport around.
In the end it kept nagging at me and I read the letter one more time and it finally dawned on me. They're answering my application, filed sometime in May, just before my tourist visa expired and when I still didn't have the work one in hand. Just a classic case of the right hand not knowing what the left is doing. From the very same office that issued me a two-year visa they send me a registered letter with an official document entitling me to stay ten days :).

We were looking for some fun for the weekend (it's awful how you can't go off to a cottage here, because nobody has one) and Haydn says he's got some mate who's got a farm and horses, that we could take a couple of those horses and run them through the hills. The mate does have a farm, about 60 square kilometres of it! Horses too, about 150! The annoying part was that he rents those horses out as a business and Haydn is his mate only to the extent that he gets a decent discount and doesn't have to take a guide along on the ride. Even so it was pig-expensive for us poor little Czechs, but it was probably worth it.
The mate, a horseman to the marrow, misjudged the length of my legs, so he had to swap my saddle for one with longer stirrups. On the other hand he judged my riding skills damn well, even though I told him I'd ridden before and I got on with his horses like with old mates. I don't know how he guessed that the only riding I'd done was in the little pen at the Matěj fair, and that in a line led slowly round and round the pen, and then in Venezuela on a horse led by a six-year-old boy in wellies. So he assigned me such a sluggard that later, out on the open plain in that heat, I only managed to force it into a canter and a gallop with the utmost exertion of all my horse-training abilities. But once that horse was galloping, it was brilliant.

Americans are pigs in general. Cleaning at home isn't something they consider desirable, let alone necessary. Vacuuming happens maybe twice a year, and once every few years the carpet just gets replaced. Naturally, nobody ever takes their shoes off at home. When I ask them to do it in our room, they look at me as if I'd asked them to change into a tuxedo. Clumps of dust, clothes strewn about etc. are the standard decoration of every house I've ever been in and it seems so normal to them that they don't even use that silly Czech line "Sorry, I didn't get round to tidying up today".
The worst example of this decline is Alex, who unfortunately lives in the flat with us. Her room has a window onto the main street, which was last washed (verified) in 1992. And right above that window there's a pigeon roost, so you could say "you can't see the street for the shit".
When I went in there once to fix something on her computer, not only was there nowhere to sit, there was nowhere to step. And that quite literally, in the fullest sense imaginable. She had a bloodstain in the crotch of her pyjama bottoms for two months. In the bathroom you can see a used pad in her bin from time to time. She was hugely surprised why Káča doesn't go swimming for a few days during her "periodically recurring days of nervousness and hysteria". She goes all the time, after all, it's not like the blood is going to dirty the pool.
Otherwise she's quite a clever and nice girl, but a terrible pig. She also doesn't quite know what to do with her life, but that's normal here. The classic scenario primary school-secondary-uni-career-family is insanely unfashionable here, so it's more like primary school-secondary-booze, drugs, moving out of home preferably to the other end of the continent-some menial waitressing-type job-sobering up-part-time uni-career-a kid at forty.

Ever since Haydn moved in with us, we've had a nice little benign communism going on here. Everybody cooks for everybody, all the food and other supplies get shared, we buy each other presents, we shop for the others too and so on. Jeff contributed dishes etc., Haydn swapped the taps for luxury ones, so the shower finally showers instead of dribbling, Káča cooks goodies for everyone, I installed an internal network hooked up to my landline Internet connection, so everyone has their computer online, etc. Also whenever I download some film, I pass it straight on, the biggest demand is for the filthy onesJ, after all everyone's currently without a woman. That's coming for me soon too, damnL.

Káča was at a kids' party the other day (babysitting, not as an invited childJ) and there was a little boy there with two guys constantly fussing around him. She couldn't stand it and asked someone. They really were two daddies who had adopted a child. One of them was probably infertile, so they had to adopt :).

Sometime at the end of October we threw a massive party at our flat, put together mainly by Jeff and Joe. I had no idea what a giant American party looks like, so I asked how many people I should invite. Well, they said right away that I have to invite absolutely everybody I know, because it's gonna be a huge party. Well, I don't know that many people here, but one Czech girl had emailed me an invite to her party and she'd sent it at the same time to some 30 other Czechs she knows here. By the way, somebody told me that about 20,000 Czechs live in SF and the area.
So I just hit Reply All and sent an invitation to our party to all those Czechs I'd never seen in my life. Of course, loads of replies came back along the lines of who are you and where did you get my address, but a few folks said they'd come and have a look. Probably because I wrote in there that all the food and drink is taken care of. And it was. Jeff bought so much booze that we still have a cupboard full of it.
In the end the vast majority of people at the party were Czechs and Slovaks, or people who'd lived in the Czech Republic for a long time, so they speak Czech. Now I notice I'm writing this whole thing without any accents, probably because I'm sitting at work. And while I'm on the subject of sitting at work. It's almost ten at night and I'm still sitting here banging away at the computer. Not because I'm such a hard worker, but because I'm such an idiot. This morning it rained for the first time in ages and I left my lights on. Since I didn't feel like getting up and got to work at eleven, I stayed here until seven, by which time everybody was long gone. Even so, I managed to talk one cleaner from El Salvador into trying to push-start me. First we pushed it by hand, but the car weighs a little under two tonnes. Then he even drove up in his tiny little Toyota and pushed me like the devil, but it still wouldn't catch. Not even a cough. So I call Káča, her phone's dead. Then Haydn, and he says he left the jumper cables in Jeff's car. Jeff's in New Jersey (the other end of the continent) at his dad's.
In the end I got hold of Káča, who happened to have Lily's car. Unfortunately they were fixing something on it today and the mechanics took the jumper cables out.
So finally Káča picked up Haydn in the borrowed car, and he happens to have the keys to Jeff's car, so they got the cables there and now Káča's hopefully on her way to rescue me. And I'm supposed to be at the airport at six tomorrow morning. I might as well have just slept here :-)
So, back to the party. Even at ten in the evening it looked like nobody at all was going to show up and that the keg of beer, the mountains of food and the hectolitres of hard booze would go to waste. Then people started arriving by the dozen and I think about 50 people turned up over the course of the night. Out back on the deck the grill with steaks was going the whole time, as chief sound guy I pushed Czech music through, and Alex had a total fit because one of the Czech lads got carried away and dared to slap her on the bum. We spent ages afterwards explaining to her that back in the Czech Republic it's a sweet little custom :-)
When it was about four in the morning, there were only a few of us left on the deck around the fire. One dork, who's American but speaks decent Czech, decided he'd show us how tough he is and started sticking his bare hands into the fire. I guess we weren't cheering enough or something, so he decided to go for a heroic deed, grabbed a big red-hot log and pulled it out. I guess he didn't expect it to burn or something, so when it dawned on him he chucked it away without thinking. Unfortunately right in the direction of my mug. Survival instinct or quick reflexes saved me, I knocked it downwards, so it slid down my ribcage over my trousers onto the ground without burning me at all, I just got scared shitless. I got over it pretty quickly, but Haydn didn't. He went for the thrower and from a few centimetres away he was yelling at him what kind of an animal he is and to get out of our flat. Then he ran off to his room, came back a few seconds later and started apologising like crazy to the thrower :). To me it seemed like a pretty funny scene and I was putting out the smouldering wooden deck as if it had nothing to do with me. Then we called it a night. The next day I got a few apologetic emails from people who hadn't done anything wrong :).

A couple of weeks ago Haydn came up with the idea that we could go camping for the weekend at Lake Sonoma, about an hour and a half north, that you can still swim there.
On Friday morning my head was hurting a bit, Káča had the day off, Haydn too, so I called work saying I felt sick and that I'd make it up next week. It looked like we could set off before noon, in the end we didn't get our act together until about five and of course we hit the worst traffic jams. So around 11 at night we arrived at the campground, which is basically a few kilometres of winding asphalt road on the hillside above the lake with a little parking spot for one or two cars every 30 metres. Each of those little spots has a fire pit, a grill and a water tap, plus a place for a tent. So we picked one, got a fire going and talked and talked. Sometime around one in the morning a car suddenly stopped by us. We look at it and I say, hey, that looks like Jeff's Monte Carlo! Káča and Haydn sensibly objected, how could Jeff be here when we barely found the place ourselves and he only had a vague idea where we were going. Well, it was him. I have no idea how he found us there at night.
Káča and I slept in a hammock (from Venezuela, they call it an Amaka) hung from a long horizontal branch. I once read a report from Venezuela where a bunch of Czechs were debating whether sex is possible in an Amaka like that. An Amaka isn't really a net, it's more of a special thick fabric so your back doesn't get cold.
Well, let me put it this way, a bed is more comfortable.
In the morning we headed down to the lake to find out what mischief you can get up to there. I wanted to try one of those jet skis that go like the devil, but there were four of us, so they outvoted me and we settled on an ordinary motorboat. I paid for it and since I always rush at anything with a steering wheel, I rushed to the wheel this time too. Surprisingly nobody objected, even though the only thing I'd ever steered on water was a little boat carved out of bark, and that with a stick while standing on the bank :)
Unfortunately, our motorboat wouldn't start. Just like at a car rental place, when they don't have the car you ordered they automatically give you a jeep for the same price, here too they said they'd give us a bigger boat for the same price. Except it wasn't a bigger boat, it was more of a small luxury yacht :). All white leather, stereo, loads of space and so on. Lucky as hell.
So I heroically climbed in, found out that you steer it with just a forward-reverse lever and a wheel, and off we went. Around the marina you have to go slow enough that no wake forms behind the boat (there are cops on boats there handing out fines, we saw it), but as soon as we got out of that zone, I floored it right away. It does maybe 50-60 km/h, which is damn fast on water. The wake behind us would have capsized the Titanic and with the roar of the two engines you couldn't hear a thing, let alone the onboard stereo :). The lake is narrow and maybe ten or fifteen kilometres long, so it was a nice ride. In places it's really narrow, so we tested our aiming skills, plus there are dead trees sticking out everywhere. We all took turns at the wheel (I can't very well call it a helm when it's not wooden). When Haydn took over, it hit me that my fear of flipping it in a turn was completely pointless. Even a sharp turn at full speed was fine, the boat just leaned against the turn and that balanced it out.
We found a pretty tall dead tree sticking out of the water quite far from the shore and Haydn said he'd climb it. So we dropped him off there and drove back out onto the open water. He climbed all the way to the top and from that distance he looked incredibly comical there, desperately glued to a branchless tree sticking out of the open water. I was cursing myself like mad that we'd left Jeff's camera in the car.
Then I climbed the tree too, and in the end Jeff did as well, it was real fun.
Finally we found a nice cove and had a great swim. The water wasn't warm like in Venezuela, but it was okay. Considering it was around October 20th...