Life in the USA 2000-2001

5 Oct 2000–10 Jan 2001 | 1732 Bryant st, San Francisco, CA / North America
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From 2000 to 2004 I lived in San Francisco, California. Since I worked there as an IT Director, I didn't have much time for proper travelling, but at least I kept writing down evidence that the USA is a pretty decent Kocourkov:-)

Moving to another continent right after uni was a great idea career-wise, but learning to live there wasn't all that easy. When you come from the small Czech basin, where 99.9% of people are white Czechs born to white Czech parents, you don't take much tolerance with you through life. San Francisco let me wake up. That Czech feeling that we can do everything and therefore do it best in the world, and that if there just weren't so few of us we'd have been ruling everybody long ago, started to seem more and more pathetic to me.

The typical Czech contempt for Americans because they eat hamburgers and don't know the capital of Bohemia is still going strong here. The longer you live in America, the more ridiculous that view gets. How many Czechs know the capital of Idaho or Iowa? And goulash or boiled pork aren't exactly world-renowned culinary legends either...

For practically all 4 years I wrote down every absurdity and oddity I noticed around the USA. Back then I had no idea how absurd the little corrupt Czech Kocourkov would seem to me after I came home. As I say, living abroad opens your eyes quite a bit, it lets you see things a little more objectively and with some perspective. In xenophobic Bohemia it should be taken as a compulsory part of education.

Since for the last 5 years or so I've either been leading or working in very international teams, I don't have many illusions about Czech hard work or cleverness compared to plenty of other nations...

So below is a selection of curiosities from the USA in chronological order, the way my disdain gradually turned into respect for this economically amazingly efficient country. Although for the last few years it looks more like the Roman Empire just before its fall:)

Because I couldn't find a job. I've gone into honest business here, I just put an ad in the paper saying I can fix any computer or teach you how to use one, and now I drive around to people and fix their computers for $30 an hour. It's pretty fun :)

Last time I built a whole network for a loaded little family, they've got a dedicated line to the Internet (something that fast I've NEVER SEEN IN MY LIFE!!! a 3MB file downloaded in 22 seconds!) They needed to share that connection, so I bought network cards, cables, a router and put it all together. The worst part was that they wanted the cables run under the house, so like an idiot I said no problem, because I thought they had a cellar. LIKE HELL! It was just a crawl space under the floor, about 40-60cm between the foundations and the floor, depending on where. Dark, several millimetres of dust and spiders. You couldn't even crawl on your knees in there, just slither along with a torch. Anyway, I heroically climbed in, slithered into one corner, spiders everywhere, wires, drain pipes, cobwebs, just lovely, I grabbed the cable there and slithered under the whole house through three rooms to the other corner of the house and there of course I found out I was about 40cm of cable short of the hole I'd drilled beforehand!!! The whole slither took about 40 minutes and was for nothing. So I slithered back out, drilled the hole closer, crawled in again and that was that. The rest was a breeze. I didn't even know I could configure a router:).
I've got to put that in my CV straight away:)

I also bought some cheap laptops, which I'm now selling through ads, and besides, since I'm planning to fix people's computers, all I need is a mobile.
So I went to buy a mobile, but they said I have to have a social security number, which is something like a birth number, which they assign to every American here. Which I don't have. So they said they can sell it to me if I have a California driving licence. So I went to get a driving licence. It costs $12, first a test and then a drive. So I booked an appointment at the DMV, drove there, queued for a ticket number, waited until it was my turn, then found out they don't take credit cards, so I walked to a cash machine, queued at the window, filled in a form, they tested my eyesight (the woman at the window spoke about as much English as I do:)
, they sent me to another queue, I stood through that one, they took my photo there, gave me the test, I wrote it, queued like a pig, a black guy marked it, found out I'd passed (5 answers out of 36 could be wrong, and as usual I had exactly five wrong:) that's what I call learning just the right amount:) Except I didn't have time to study. I got wrong, for instance, that the legal blood alcohol limit is 0.8 per mille, and that on the motorway you have to indicate 5 seconds before moving into another lane, not 3:)
Well, so they put in the computer that I'd passed and then the black guy says: We can't issue you the licence if you don't have a social security number!\" So I explained to him that I felt a bit like I was in Kocourkov. Even though there were about fifteen people in the queue behind me, nervous as anything, he patiently explained to me that I have to go to the office that assigns those numbers, file an application, they'll look into me, find out I'm not entitled to be assigned the number and then issue me a confirmation that I'm not entitled. Then I come to them with that confirmation, they take it, then they let me do the test drive (that'll be a laugh:)
I'll probably chuck it into a handbrake spin somewhere:) and then they'll send me the licence in the post:) Well, I'll give it a go...
So I went to that other office, queued for 2.5 hours, then a girl printed three lines out of the computer for me, thanked me for my patience and that was it. A confirmation that I can't get a confirmation that I have a social security number is in my pocket! So I took it to the DMV and they said that now I can do the test \"behind the wheel\", that is \"behind the bike\", that is behind the steering wheel.
I had to wait about a month. So I turned up there, queued for two hours, then a good-looking black woman got in, quizzed me on where the indicators, wipers and so on are, and off we went. Just past the first junction she had me stop by the kerb, she kept writing something down and says: \"back-up\". I knew back-up means backing up (computer data), but somehow it didn't make sense in a car. So I asked what I was supposed to do and she says \"straight backup\" and pointed her thumb backwards. It dawned on me that nothing was going to get backed up and that I was probably supposed to reverse. I thought I'd stopped too far from the kerb, so I reversed closer to it. Then we came back to the DMV and she says, like, had I practised for this test. That rather took my breath away, I didn't know whether to tell her that I've had a licence for eleven years, have had about 60 cars and drive about 50,000km a year. And as I'm standing there silent and confused, she handed me the paper and said I've got two more chances:) They flat out FAILED me on the driving test!!!:) Apparently I was supposed to keep reversing straight along that kerb and not get closer to it:)
So I have to book again and reverse in a straight line sometime at the end of January:)
Jefak and I also went to an auction and bought five cars. One for me, one for him, one for the cook on the boat and two just because they were dirt cheap:)

Housing is pretty tough here, everything's expensive as hell. For now I'm living on the boat. I'm looking for something reasonable.
Now I'm getting ready for two big trips, one to Utah, where we're invited for Thanksgiving, and then to West Virginia, where Jefak has a moving truck that needs bringing to SF and that'll be my job! It's across the whole states, so that'll be a right laugh:)
And for Christmas we're invited to LA to Jefak's cousin, so it's all good

I've also remembered one story, which at the same time explains why my mail header says John Koran. I was sending my CVs to various companies looking for computer \"experts\". I was getting replies like: \"Dear Mrs Koran, we have chosen another aplicant for the position network administrator, bla bla bla... In other words, something along the lines of Dear Miss Koran, we really don't need you as a network administrator:) So I dug into what was going on, and the name Jan is simply Jana. So now I'm John here in writing too:) And the offers are pouring in. And they say they've got equal rights here, everyone's mouth is full of it... It's pretty funny that I became a victim of gender discrimination, isn't it:)

For Christmas we got invited by Jeff's cousin Steve over to his place in Los Angeles. He's got one hell of a house at Manhattan Beach, meaning right on the beach, with a view of the ocean, a posh neighbourhood. On our Christmas, i.e. the 24th, we went to visit some Swedish family to have a look at a Swedish Christmas. Supposedly it was just round the corner, we set off around seven in the evening. Well, apparently "round the corner" is a relative term, it was about 120 km. An even more luxurious house, with a rock, two waterfalls, a cave and an artificial lake (the word pool is way too small for that :)) You could swim into that cave and climb out through a tunnel at the top of the rock.
There were about 40-50 people there, they were having all sorts of fun and booze, and then there was grub. There was loads of food on two maxi-tables, everyone was called together, we formed a circle, held hands and then some singing happened. Probably a prayer or something, us heathens just flapped our jaws silently. Káča might have been making some melodic noises, I think :))
When the singing was over, everybody threw themselves at those heaps of food and piled it onto their plates. Which means it was a buffet. And it also means I looked like a total nutter there, drooling over it before the prayer :)))
When everybody was stuffed, Grandfather Frost arrived. Actually, what am I babbling on about, I almost forgot that I have to hide my communist upbringing, because communism has a worse meaning here, I think, than fascism or cannibal :)) So Santa Klaus Václav arrived and they shoved about four potato sacks full of presents on him. Every kid whose name was called had to walk across that whole room the size of a volleyball court, sit on the old man's lap and say thank you. Thank God we didn't get anything.
When everything had been handed out, the kids vanished, the lights went off and after a while, to the sound of some legend, the kids came back wearing white robes with burning candles in a ring on their heads. They were handing out some sweets. Some Swedish custom, I guess, or whatever.
Then we drove back to the cousin's. They're terrible, but I mean terrible boozers, I already met them once in Italy. They've even got a bar in that house. Not one of those little cabinets in the living room, but a proper regular bar with a wooden bar counter about 3 m long, bar stools, hundreds of glasses up by the ceiling, shakers and dozens of spirits for long drinks, table football!!! (the kind where there are little men on rods and a ball flying between them :)), armchairs and sofas, a telly etc., just a regular bar. So of course we boozed there till morning, and when I say till morning, I mean till eight in the morning. Then the kids got up, so Steve took his daughter to some amusement centre to play some arcade games with her and the rest of us went to bed. At first I was drinking Martinis at those Swedes' place (which in the American version isn't that sweet lip-gluer like back home, it's about 200 ml of vodka, ice, an olive and a teaspoon of Martini!) and then in the \"bar\" I switched to Cosmopolitans, which is again vodka, some weird booze the colour of Scotch and cranberry juice. I'd never seen cranberry juice before in my life, but since I've been here, I keep drinking it with vodka. Because the local beer is total... And you can imagine how I felt in the morning, right?
It was terribly hot outside, so we went for a walk on the beach, thinking we'd have a swim. A few people were swimming there (absurd on Christmas Eve and St Stephen's Day, isn't it?), except I felt so awful that we gave up on it.
In the evening about 30 people gathered again and there was another massive dinner. This time I took part in its \"cooking\", in fact I can say almost 50 percent of it. We got in the car and drove to pick up two pre-ordered turkeys and a thousand other ingredients prepared ready to be scoffed :)) That's how they cook here at Christmas. Well, at the places of those who can afford it, I guess.
Oh, and the presents, those were unwrapped right after lunch. Well, after lunch, that's nonsense, because apart from me and Káča everybody here eats only once a day, which is killing me. So the presents were unwrapped after noon. The biggest fuss was caused by Jeff, who bought his new mistress, 17 years younger than him, about 11 complete outfits. Complete means from shoes, trousers or a skirt, a blouse, all the way to a coat and jewellery, always everything together so it matches. I got a solid leather jacket (no wonder I liked it, since I picked it out myself :)) I wanted to prevent receiving a garish red jacket with rugby lettering like I got last time :)) This time I also managed to buy Jeff a present of the same value, so all good.
And after dinner of course there was terrible boozing again in the bar till morning.
Besides experiencing a pretty interesting Christmas, we also received another interesting invitation for New Year's Eve. Steve's wife Laura is a lawyer (so is Steve) and one of their clients, Mon Sir Parvizia Azad from Iraq, is a terrible gambler in Las Vegas. Well, and when a person loses a lot of money in Las Vegas, in time he earns the so-called gold card, which means he gets a hotel, a limo, food, drinks for free, eventually even a plane to Las Vegas and later on the same perks for his friends. I mean, when a guy loses 7,000 dollars (280,000 CZK) in one night and it happens to him several times a year, no wonder they want him back, right? So we became those friends.
We had a room at our disposal, a so-called Suite at the Mirage hotel in Las Vegas, and that from Friday the 29th of December. Unfortunately, Káča is employed by slave drivers, who kindly gave her one day off for Christmas, which she has to make up for, though!! (normally she works 12 hours a day, now she has to do 13!), but they didn't give her any time off for New Year's Eve. So Jeff flew on Friday evening, we only left by car on Saturday evening. It's a good 918.4 km to Las Vegas (calculated on Yahoo directions, which gives you exact instructions on where to go), which wouldn't be so bad if it were somewhere in Europe. Except here, in this weird country, where everybody's got huge, powerful, safe cars that could easily do 200 km/h, super highways everywhere with three to six lanes, well here in this country the speed limit on the highway is a pathetic 104 km/h!!!!! :(((( (65 mph). Exceptionally in the desert 70 mph (112 km/h). And the fines and the number of cops here are so awful that almost nobody dares to go faster. Me least of all, when I haven't got my car insurance paid (it costs about $200 (8,000 CZK) a month...) So we had to trudge those 950-odd kilometres at this snail's pace. I finally understood what frustration is. Of all people, me... I had to prop the gas pedal up with a brick, the very brick I always used to put ON the gas, not under it :((( Once, at about three in the morning, I couldn't take it any more and in the middle of an empty highway in the desert, where you could see about 485 km ahead, I let it go up to 95 mph. I felt like I was robbing a bank or something :)) But my laughter stopped when I saw a sign saying \"Speed checked by aircraft\", i.e. something like \"We've got radars in planes too\", and a few minutes later I saw a helicopter above the highway :((
We got to Vegas fairly calmly at about eight in the morning. We found the hotel (no wonder, it's one of the three biggest and most luxurious in Las Vegas, it has 2,512 rooms, a casino, a pool, several pubs, loads of shops, four pools with dolphins!, a white tiger (they had two, but one of them ate the other! Seriously! It was quite a mess, because the white tiger is one of the 24 most endangered animals in the world!). We found the reception and I was concentrating so hard on looking like I belonged there (jacket, black shirt, black trousers, stony expression, dark glasses :) that I didn't even notice that behind the receptionist it wasn't wallpaper, but an aquarium about 10 metres long and two metres high full of fish, including three SHARKS about 60-80 cm long! The receptionist coolly just handed me a map! of the hotel, described the way to the lifts, I grabbed an axe, food for three days and off we went :)) We crossed a bridge over a river, went through a jungle past a waterfall, then past a pub in a palm grove and finally through the casino to the lifts. (there isn't a single made-up or exaggerated word in this sentence, that hotel's lobby has the dimensions of a small village and they really do have a jungle, waterfalls, a bridge and live palm trees in there!!!) We took the lift up to the 14th floor, our room was on the border of the northern and western wing of the hotel. You came into a reception room with a bar (roughly like at Steve's in LA), a kitchen and a toilet, a telly, several tables and sofas. Then you could go through to the first bedroom, again with a telly, which slid electrically into the headboard of the bed, a huge window with a view of downtown Las Vegas, then a bathroom the size of my kitchen in Tunka, two sinks, loads of mirrors, a tub with a whirlpool (more like a small pool), a shower cubicle the size of a normal bathroom, a toilet and so on, everything sort of in gold (I wouldn't recognise real gold anyway). On the table piles of towels of all sizes and shapes, shampoos, conditioners, shaving foams, toothbrushes and toothpastes, basically everything a person usually forgets at home.
The second bedroom was similar, only there was a bigger telly, two double beds, a slightly smaller bathroom with a toilet and an equally big window with the same view. All in all, most people don't have an apartment anywhere near as well equipped... Price per night - $750 (30,000 CZK...) Free for us, or rather on the hotel's account, and that including food and drinks, which we of course had brought to the room. So a six-course breakfast and suchlike :))) So that was a short explanation of why it's important to have good friends :)) By the way, Mon Sir Parvizia lost $7,000 the first night and the second night he won about $9,500 back. How he ended up after that I don't know. He was staying in a different hotel with his wives and four daughters.
On New Year's Eve evening we all met up in Steve's room and split up. Some went to a show at Caesars Palace (the casino across the street), some to a show at the Mirage (our hotel and casino) and me, Janice, Brion and Andrew (more of Jeff's relatives) got hold of one of those miracle cards and headed off for a luxury dinner. We had vintage wine, I had lobster and some special steak, a few starters and so on. A total of $315 (12,600 CZK). The tip, which here is 15-20% of the bill, was over 60 dollars, plus we also had to slip the host a twenty so he'd find us a free table, so even though the dinner was on the hotel's account thanks to that miracle card, we had to pay the tip out of our own pocket. Under normal circumstances we probably wouldn't have spent that much on a whole dinner and this was just the tip :))
At midnight there was one hell of a shitworks, people in the street like flies, traffic completely at a standstill, people yelling, basically May Day to a T.
Then we all boozed together in a bar in the casino, Káča and I watched the women who were walking around in absolutely summery daring outfits (well, during the day the sun was 20-25, at night still about 15-20 degrees) and then at about three we died into bed. (No wonder, when we'd spent the whole previous night on the highway...)
In the morning everybody packed up and cleared off to their plane, Káča and I enjoyed the big bathroom and bed and the porn channel a bit more, then we packed up too, visited the dolphins, the white tiger, the Venetian casino (i.e. Venice), where they've got the whole first floor of the hotel built in the style of Venice, so a fake blue sky, streets, houses, a river with water with gondolas going along it, you'd honestly believe you were in Venice. People strolling about, getting into gondolas, shopping. And all of that on the first floor of a hotel... Admittedly it's about a square kilometre, so it doesn't feel like a building to you... Just American perverts :)))
On the way out of town we also filmed the Eiffel Tower, around Caesars Palace it looks like ancient Rome again, in front of the Treasure Island casino two pirate ships shoot it out, and that at actual size and with twenty live pirates, one of those ships even properly sinks... Quite good fun. All these attractions are paid for from the money of those who come to Vegas to blow thousands. I lost 75 cents, so they probably aren't too fond of me :))
The trip back wasn't such fun any more. We weren't the only ones who decided to leave Las Vegas on the afternoon of the 1st of January, so the first hundred miles on the highway took five hours. At that moment we were saying that for that $120 it would probably have been worth flying, but no such luck! Jeff has just been telling me that they were supposed to fly out of Vegas at one on the 1st, but they only flew out at seven in the morning on the 2nd, and that only to Los Angeles, where they had another 13 hours of delay, so they spent it at Steve's house, but he was still in Las Vegas (oddly enough as planned) and then they met at the airport when Steve was flying in from Vegas and Jeff was flying out to San Francisco. It took him 36 hours, so even though he was supposed to fly out a few hours before us and the flight takes about 55 minutes, he got to San Francisco 15 hours later than us :))) When we flew to Vegas about a month ago, that was delayed too, but only about five hours and not two days :)))
Jeff recently remembered that he'd bought a video camera about three years ago and had never used it. We really did find it and there were 3.5 minutes of footage on it :)) So I got it working and took it with me to Vegas, so I've got some footage... Maybe I'll pick out some interesting moments, stuff it into the computer and send it round by mail, or something...

I feel right at home again, because what I'd really need is a day with about 45 hours in it so I could get everything done. I put out one ad saying I fix computers and not many people got in touch. But the ones who did, I'm still working for them today, or their mates call me saying they heard that... and that they'd also need something done. On top of that I've got a solid source of cheap laptops, so people call me again saying so-and-so got a computer from me and they'd like one too and so on. And on top of all that, from back when I was looking for a job, the owner of four hospitals got in touch saying he needs somebody to take care of all his computers and the network and the Internet and so on. So he's sorting out a work permit for me and until he gets it he wants me to work there as a consultant. Plus I got collared by the owner of a wine trading company (for example Beaujolais, 1900 vintage, a bargain price of $175,000 (7,000,000 CZK!!), he really has that in stock, have a look at www.finewinesint.com!), saying he'd have work for me in his business.
And of course I couldn't resist, I went to a car auction, so I've got two vans again, one small Honda, one big American thing, and I sold two Jeeps...
So as usual I've got more on my plate than I can handle and I don't know what to ditch...

As nice and easy as things are here with normal phones, it's rubbish with mobiles. They'll install a normal phone by the next day and then it costs $7 a month. All local calls are free (local means an area about the size of Prague plus Central Bohemia) and other calls around America are 5 cents a minute.
But with a mobile it's insane. At first it sounded good, we were just wondering why so few people have a mobile. For $29 a month they offer 500 free minutes, which by my count is cheaper than back home. Except: you pay for incoming calls too, and not from the moment you start talking, but from the first ring. It's only counted in whole minutes. Outgoing calls are charged from the moment you start dialling the number. Calling your voicemail, same thing. Of those 500 minutes only 250 are daytime, the rest are at night. The signal coverage is absolutely hopeless, so even though every mobile here has a pull-out antenna like crazy (I feel like a radio car), calls drop even in the middle of the city, never mind buildings or the suburbs. You can send texts, but only over the Internet, so the whole time you're writing one your minutes are ticking away. And once I run out of minutes, every ring of the phone and every minute costs me 49 cents :(( Just a hundred years behind and expensive as hell on top of it... Good old Paegas, not to mention Oskar. Oh and those lousy texts can only be sent to phones on the same operator. And whoever didn't get the story about why I picked this particular operator (social security number, driving licence etc...) just drop me a line.

Everybody's got it. Jeff's dad is 72 and he's now going to a computer course so they can teach him about that \"Internet\" thing. Everything happens over the Internet. When I need to buy something, arrange something, find something out, get hold of something, sell something, it's all on the Internet. Over a phone modem it's free, and whoever wants fast Internet gets it through the cable TV. It costs $40 a month, but it's something AMAZING!! For the techies: I needed to download a 13MB driver, it took exactly 27 seconds! No cache or anything, just a straight download. For the non-techies: the same thing over a modem would take about 1.5 hours...
BTW, who's got a microphone on their computer? I'd like to try Netmeeting with voice...

It's all designed so that even the dumbest black guy can drive (apologies to anti-racists and clever black guys). Which means there are no rules. No main roads and side roads, no right of way, no rules. The \"Main road\" sign DOESN'T EXIST here at all! I mean, they'd have to learn it, right. So every junction has either traffic lights or stop signs on ALL the approach roads! So picture this: I'm driving down a wide road in the city, clearly a main road by our standards. Two in the morning, not a car anywhere. You can see a kilometre ahead, a kilometre to the right, a kilometre to the left. What do I have to do? Stop at the stop sign! Every 50 metres or so, for every stupid little street on the right or the left. My left leg from the clutch is already twice the size of my right one. With my next car I'm adapting to the Americans, I'm only getting automatics. And as if that weren't enough, every now and then you come across a junction where the stop sign is only on three roads out of four. So normally it works so that whoever gets to the junction first goes first. (obviously that's hard to judge, so people wave at each other, let each other through and so on and everything takes six times as long...) And when that one stop sign isn't there, you think, aha, I got here first, off I go, and suddenly somebody comes tearing in from the left who doesn't have a stop sign... I don't know how it's possible, but it works and there are way fewer accidents here than in Prague or anywhere else. It's because those stop signs slow the traffic down so much that nobody ever really gets going... Plus there are motorways everywhere, so it pays off when I'm driving from the boat to the shop, which is about like going from Wenceslas Square to the Old Town Square, it's worth getting on the motorway and getting straight off it again, because over those 600 metres I avoid about sixteen stop signs :))
I've already talked about the 105 km/h motorway limit...
The legal blood alcohol level here is: hold on to your hat, 0.08 per mille! I reckon that's about four large beers... You can drive from sixteen, booze from 21.

What people mostly drink here are mixed drinks, like a Cosmopolitan, recipe see above. American beers are awful, but you can buy bottled Pilsner everywhere, sometimes even on tap. And absolutely everywhere Dutch Heineken, which is also drinkable. Unfortunately a small beer in a pub costs $5-6 (200-240 CZK) :(((

I opened an account here, because everybody pays by cheque, people don't really deal in actual cash here. For two days I couldn't break a hundred dollar note, everywhere they'd rather take a credit card even for paying for matches than mess about with change. People pay each other by cheque, and you can only cash a cheque without a fee if you have an account. So I opened one for free and a credit card came in the post for free within a week. There's no interest on the account, but then those three percent they give you in Czechia with eight percent inflation...

As an immigrant I feel absolutely fine here, because basically everybody here is an immigrant. In all the time I've been here I've met just one person who was born in San Francisco. The rest are either from another corner of the USA or another corner of the globe.

That's dead easy here. Sometimes. Unfortunately they've got so much of everything that when you want to buy some lousy crisps, you have to make up your mind in front of a shelf about 25 metres long with all sorts of crisps on four levels. And it's like that with everything. On the other hand, for the first time in my life I found jeans here that are a bit too long for me and at the same time perfect in the waist and round the arse. Unbelievable. Normal sizes are like 28x28, 30x30, 32x32 and I found 31x34, where the first number is the width and the second the length :)) Now I've got a proper leather jacket and solid black jeans to go with it, so all I'm missing is the motorbike. Where else should a bloke get a motorbike than in a country where it's 20 above zero in January and the sun shines all day long?
Back to shopping: whatever you buy here, you can return it without giving any reason whatsoever! And it really works! So when I'm doing something for somebody, I buy twice as much material as I need and simply return the rest. And I get them to reimburse me for all of it :)) Nah, not really.

The abbreviation COWS is only known to Jeff and me. It stands for California One-Way Street. Because people in California haven't got the slightest feeling that they should be grateful to anybody for anything. Example one: Joe – Jeff's mate, who was in Czechia with Jeff three years ago for Christmas. I drove him everywhere, he stayed at my place in Prague, spent Christmas Eve with my family and me, got presents, I paid for everything for him and so on. He's got a flat in downtown San Francisco, in which Jeff rents a room. Before I found a place to live, I wanted to stay in that room. It cost Jeff quite a bit of persuading for Joe to even let me crash there. He graciously allowed me 14 days. In the end I was there about two nights, he can shove it up his...
Example #2: Káča and I bought presents for the family she works for, for them and their brats, for something like $100. On top of that I fixed their computers and set up their network for them, about 25 hours of work in total. For free. What did they buy us for Christmas? Sod all. COWS. Well, they gave Káča some English-learning CDs, but I'd consider that more of an attack or an insult than a gift. And we had presents for loads of people from whom we didn't even hear a thank you...

I've rambled on again, damn it. I got some positive feedback on my previous stories from the USA, so this is the continuation. If anybody doesn't want another instalment, just reply to this mail with the word UNSUBSCRIBE or SHOVEITSOMEWHERE and I'll send it to them again next time anyway :))
I reckon I could get some funny stories in return from Prague, Ústí, the Austrian Alps, Australia, Indonesia or another part of the globe, so that it isn't COWS :)))

So after a long time I finally got around to writing another instalment of the merry adventures from the shoot in the USA. Since some \"readers\" complained last time about the missing háčeks and čárkas, I took the trouble and, in the middle of an Anglo-Saxon environment, I installed a Czech keyboard. Other readers complained that I write just the way my beak grew, which I can't do anything about. So first two fundamental pieces of news:
1. I've got a job 2.
I've got no hair:) see pic: (whoever thinks it's narcissism shouldn't look at it)

re.1 I basically have more work than you can fit into 24x7 hours a week. Besides my regular job, the description of which follows, I also work for a guy who deals in vintage wine (he's got bottles going for 170,000 USD apiece - I'd love to see the person who opens a bottle of wine worth a cool seven million crowns after dinner...). At first I was just training him on the computer, but now he's decided to drag me into his business and offered me more or less a job. So far I don't know what to do with it
. My main job is somewhere else though. I was hired by a corporation of eleven smaller hospitals as an MIS coordinator, which is something like a coordinator of information systems. So that I could work for them legally, they hired a law firm that's sorting out a special work visa for me. For now I work as an external consultant until the visa comes through.
Job description:
The corporation has 7 hospitals, four administrative buildings and about 500 employees, all of it scattered all over California. (California is about the size of half of Europe) They hired me because they need all those buildings (the farthest one is 600km from me) connected into one big computer network so all the employees can communicate and share data. When they first told me, I had to lean against the wall so it wouldn't knock me over. Today I've got most of it connected and it didn't even hurt that much. Basically for the last few weeks I've been playing with all the toys I always wanted to play with (the newest computers, servers, network gear, super fast Internet etc.) and the dopes even pay me for it!J)) I've already spent about 39,000 dollars on equipment, which is a tidy 1.5 million crowns, and I'm not done yetJ) I do work 10-12 hours a day, but considering I'm paid by the hour and I enjoy it like crazy, it's all good. And on top of that they obviously don't pay me badly at all, right... I still can't get over the marvels of it, like when somebody calls me from Los Angeles (600 km away) that they need some changes on the server, so I say no problem, sit down at the computer and do it from that distance over the Internet. And that even from home, from bed. Last night, for instance, I was configuring a mail server in Los Angeles where all the employees will have their e-mail. As a second attachment I'm enclosing a map of the network I look after. Everything with a thick frame around it I built with my own hands:) Of course I don't know how to handle everything, but luckily the supplier of all that equipment is willing to consult when all the books and info on the Internet fail. The hottest task of the last few days is getting an application server running that'll let all the accountants and finance people from the whole corporation work over the Internet on one computer, which I've got right here with me, and that way everybody will always have the freshest possible data even though they're sitting hundreds of kilometres from each other. Plus central storage of all financial data... In the administrative building where I have my office (San Francisco-Oakland) there are a few other people with me who work for the whole corporation. My only superior, and at the same time the owner of the whole corporation, sits in Los Angeles, which gives me absolute freedom in what I do. Nobody else understands what I do anyway (sometimes not even me), so nobody butts into it. The other day I concentrated on something so damn hard that the whole building nearly went up in flames. I was thinking hard about something and I go to the kitchen to make myself a tea. So I take a cup, drop a teabag in it and shove it in the nukebox. That's my little trick for saving the time you'd spend waiting for water. I went off to do something and forgot about the tea. In a while I smell a terrible stink, so I run to the kitchen to see what that mangy nukebox is doing with my tea. In the kitchen you couldn't see a thing for the smoke, so I quickly pulled the cup out and right away I knew what was up. I'd sort of forgotten to put any water in it and the cup had started smouldering dry. So I blew it out, chucked it in the bin and put in a new one. This time with water. I went back to work again, no way am I losing two minutes waiting for tea. In a while, a new wave of stink. I run back there and the secretary is already pouring buckets of water into the bin. Sure, I blew out the cup, but the teabag was still smouldering... There was a plastic bag in that bin and it decided to join in the smouldering… Luckily it was Friday afternoon and by Monday it had aired out. Only the inside of the oven is a bit smelly... Luckily something similar had already happened to our accountant, so they didn't laugh at me too much:) Of course not all my work can be handled over the Internet and the phone, so when things get bad I tell our secretary, she books me a ticket on the bird and the next morning I fly. It's only an hour to Los Angeles, so I fly there in the morning and come back in the afternoon. The nearer places I drive to by car. Another step I'm working on is creating a company-wide directory with all the employees, their e-mail, phone etc. Everybody would then have it in their computer. Incredibly, nothing like that existed until now. And last but not least I'm playing artist and creating web pages for the whole corporation, which are for now at kocourkov.webpark.cz and within a few days will go live at www.starsinc.com. Kocourkov will then be for my private pages, so the next adventures, photos included, you might find there. Well, that'll do, now some general observations.

San Francisco in general is one of the safest cities in America. Even the taxis here don't have bulletproof glass between the driver and the passengers like everywhere else. I don't feel any less safe here than, say, in Prague. Only some neighbourhoods are best avoided at night. But the one experience connected with danger is worth telling: I was at a scrapyard buying a battery for the car and as I'm waiting there in the office, a black guy walked past me with a car seat in his hands. The owner, nothing. In a while some helper of his comes in and says: \"Hey, those two with the seat, did they pay?\" The owner yelled something filthy and they both ran out, like they were going to chase them. Unfortunately the owner happened to have my credit card in his hand. In a while one of them runs back inside and I thought he'd given up, so I say as a terrific joke: \"Sometimes you'd need a gun, huh?\" He took it as if I was offering him my gun and says: \"Don't need it, I've got my own,\" and he's already pulling some crazy cannon out of the drawer and ran back out, jumped in the car, the tyres squealed and he was gone. Luckily the other one stayed there and had my credit card. I preferred to grab the battery and disappear, so the punchline of this story is missing. Whether they caught him and shot him we'll never find out.J

In general, relations between women and men here are totally twisted. Example one, Alex, my flatmate. She told me how she met her current lover. She was standing at a bus stop at night and saw some good-looking lad there, so she went over to him and says: \"Hey, I've got to walk a bit here, don't you want to walk me home?\" And well, he wanted to. Apparently it's completely normal here for a woman to pick up a guy, the other way round it would probably be sexual harassment. If she'd done this to me, I'd be one hundred percent sure she was a whore... And yet she's a nice, smart girl. Example two, Jeff and his women. (I've already had the honour of meeting three of them...) I don't know whether it's Jeff's fault or not, but all three were terribly pleasant and sweet at the start and over time turned out to be totally lazy bitches who just sucked money out of him. Take Michelle, the one he's with now (by the way she's younger than me:-, Jeff is 43), she works three days a week, six hours a day, so she's got sod all money and since I've been here her car has fallen apart twice already. She's not at all ashamed to call Jeff, he takes it to the garage for her and pays (the first time $350, last time $390). The next day Jeff needed some help with something, so he calls her and she told him that unfortunately she already had other plans... Besides that, whenever they see each other, Jeff of course pays for everything (including trips, hotels, plane tickets, food, he bought her rags for about $2-3000) and as if that wasn't enough, every time she asks him for some money on top, so she's like not without money… Disgusting. Judging by what I've experienced here so far, I'm put off by the local women. They interpret emancipation as having absolute personal freedom and rights, but at men's expense... Well, I guess it depends on what a guy puts up with. Joe is 34 and to this day he's without a woman, he probably hasn't got the stomach for them. Me neither.

And now something completely different, hotels. I always wondered what they do in a hotel when a guest forgets to return the room key. They can't be changing the lock every time. Well, they've got it cleverly sorted. Either they have magnetic cards instead of keys and they reprogram the card for each guest, or, if they want to keep up the antique appearance, they have what look like normal keys, but instead of teeth it's got a magnetic strip again. So I don't even have a guilty conscience for recently finding a room key from a hotel in Las Vegas in my pocket:)

So picture a junction of four different freeways, along which literally 24 hours a day four to six lanes of cars are pouring at about 100 km/h. And somebody wants to carry straight on, somebody wants to go left, right and so on, and that from every direction. So instead of traffic lights they build a ton of bridges, overpasses and underpasses and in the end everyone, no matter where they're coming from or going to, doesn't even have to touch the brakes. The whole thing then has several levels and from a plane it looks interesting. And just to make it not so simple, all this can happen right in the city centre, straight over the rooftops of the houses. From below those bridges look pretty weird, but it properly lifts your mood when you whizz through the centre at a hundred instead of standing half an hour at the lights at Pavlák:)

Briefly - third-party insurance for a small car in California costs $200-280 (8000-11200 CZK) A MONTH!!! (later it turned out that with each additional year of driving in California the price of the insurance drops geometrically)

Ever since the beginning I've been keeping an eye on the local sayings here and I'm hugely amused by how similar to and different from ours they are:

\"Better one bird in hands then two in bushes\"=\"Better one bird in the fist than two in the bushes\"

\"The coast is clear\"=\"The shore is clean\"

\"Don\'t pull my leg\" = \"Don\'t pull me by the leg\"

\"Don\'t make ass of me\" - \" Don\'t make an arse out of me\"

\"Be a Roman in the Rome\" = \"Be a Roman in Rome\" (that's why I'm John now and not Miss Jan)

\"You and dead rat in your pocket?\" = \"What do you mean we, you and that rat in your pocket?\" This one has no equivalent in Czech, it's used for a situation when somebody says for example \"Let's wash the car\" and means himself and the other guy, only the other guy definitely doesn't want to do it, so he acts surprised: \"Who's we, you and that dead rat in your pocket? Well, I don't know if I explained it well, there's a little rat talking to me the whole time here.
\"Up and running\" = literally \"up and running\", originally probably a runner, these days anything that works, so for instance I'm talking about my computer and I say \"This guy is up and running\", which means \"This mate of mine is working now\" or something like that. As I read it back to myself, I reckon this passage will only be appreciated by English speakers. And who knows if even them...

h4.Units

The fact that here they have miles instead of kilometres, ounces and gallons instead of litres, pounds instead of kilos and degrees Fahrenheit instead of degrees Celsius, that I've got used to. But working out a car's consumption by how many miles the car does on one gallon of petrol, that I still can't manage. And as if that wasn't enough, I found out they don't even have the same video tapes here. Well, they are the same, but the video runs at a different speed (the speed is probably in dozens of inches per centuryJ), so the video tape I brought Jeff as a present is useless and the video I shot in Las Vegas and around here and wanted to send home, likewiseL.

Of course, everybody immediately thought of hamburgers and McDonald's. But that's only for the very lowest dregs around here. Anybody who's got time and money has an unbelievable number of eateries at his disposal, they're on every corner and you can get food from absolutely all over the world. So you can pop into an Indian, Korean, Mexican, German, Chinese or any other kind of joint and have decent, good food from all over the world. And when I say from all over the world, I mean all over, because last Friday I had pork with dumplings and sauerkraut and a Pilsner at a Czech pub. By the way, they've got Pilsner on tap in every third pub and every bigger shop. Unfortunately it's just about the priciest beer (up to $6 (240 CZK) for a third of a litre on tapL). Right round the corner from the house where we live there's a Chinese place where you can get food for 4-5 dollars, except there's so much of it that two people can eat their fill and there's still some left (or they both burst). So we go there for food and it works out cheaper than cooking. For instance they've got a great chicken risotto, almost like mum's:) What's unbelievable is how many kinds of vegetables exist that we don't know at all. Everybody here uses them like mad (if anybody actually cooks, that is) and you eat it, you ask what it is, they tell you and you still stare like an idiot, because there's simply no word for it in Czech... What bothers me a lot here (apart from the absence of proper bread) is that nobody uses sugar and salt at all. Most people just don't have it at home, or only a bit in the salt shaker, no sugar at all. Somebody once told them it isn't healthy and they all just stopped using it. Luckily it hasn't disappeared from the shops yet:)

Using real money here is completely off the mark. Everywhere you can of course pay by card (except at McDonald's) and paying by card is faster here. I already wrote about that last time, anyway. But how do you move money between people? Like when Franta needs to give Pepa $800? They've got that figured out too, that's what checks are for. It's gone so far that when I had to pay the rent, I simply pulled those $575 out of the mattress (yes, you read that right, we pay 23,000 CZK a month for one room in San FranciscoL) and I take it to Joe and he goes: \"Look, I don't want cash, give me a check\" So I had to take that pile of money and go to Safeway (that's the supermarket round the corner), change the money for a check there and bring him the check. Then he took the check, carried it to the bank, the bank changed it into electronic money, sent it to another bank, that other bank issued a check and posted it to the owner of the house, who lives next door. She took the check, carried it to her bank, where they changed it for......

I wanted to order an extra phone line for my room so I could hang on the Internet undisturbed all day long without it restricting my roommates in any way. I'd seen that they pay 5 dollars a month and local calls are free in that, so why not. So I called up about a new line, they asked me a hundred and ten questions and finally what plan I wanted, supposedly. So I say naively, that one for five dollars, and they say that's nonsense, the cheapest one is twenty. So I said thanks, forget it, and put it out of my mind. Then I was talking about it with Alex and she says she's got some plan called Universal lifeline (Life Line?) really for those five bucks a month. So I call them and they say it's a plan only for people who have a super low income and can't afford a normal phone, so by law the phone company has to give them a huge discount. Which means that a telephone is something like air, something everybody here is legally entitled to, even if they haven't got the cash for it!:) So I immediately pushed the line that I'm only here to study and that I have no income and I withdraw money from the Czech Republic with a credit card. And right away they asked how much and I said something and they said well then I definitely qualify and my phone would start working in about an hour. The cable was already there, so I just bought a handset at a second-hand shop for three dollars and that was that. By the way, the number is 001-415-861-6717 dialled from the Czech Republic...

Whenever I taught Internet courses at Gopas, people used to ask me what it's actually good for. Now I'd know veeery well what to tell them.: Example one and the best:
Mercedes

Jeffák and I went halves on a 1975 Mercedes 450SL convertible at an auction, because it's worth a fortune here and it was cheap. It turned out the Mercedes has a cracked frame, which has to be fixed, and that's a matter of about $3000 (120,000 CZK). Well, what can you do, without that it would fall apart. We called Mercedes, where they told us what the frame costs and we decided to try to get hold of a used one. So I sat down at the Internet and started searching. So I'm searching all sorts of stuff about the car and Jeffák is looking over my shoulder. Suddenly he yelled something like, hey, hang on, over there they're writing something about a \"recall\"! I thought he'd gone nuts, recall means something like calling back, or something, what's that got to do with our frame! It turned out, quite a lot. A recall means that when a manufacturer finds out they've scr... I mean, made something badly, they publicly announce that it's their fault and that they'll repair or replace it free of charge for anybody who brings it to an authorised service centre. Right, except this recall was announced almost twenty years ago and the car is 26 years old now! I was pretty sceptical, but the next day we took the Mercedes and drove it to the Mercedes San Francisco service centre. They pulled a face like they'd bitten into a lemon, but we convinced them that the recall really does exist for it. Jeffák deliberately put on a suit for it so they wouldn't take liberties with him, and they did behave accordingly. They lifted the Bear onto the ramp to take a look at it. They squirmed about it, because nobody fancies pulling the engine, the whole front end and the frame out of a 26-year-old Mercedes for free. But when they finally saw it, they crossed themselves at how we could have driven around in that, that the car had such a cracked frame that it could have fallen apart into its elementary particles and we could have got killed just like that. In the end they also found in the computer that this model had another recall on some part of the throttle, so they'd replace that for us too. Today we went to pick it up, the car's like new and 3000 dollars in our pocket. Somebody sold us that car almost for free because it needed an expensive repair and now he's rubbing his hands at how he ripped us off:)

Example 2: Laptop
I've been doing a bit of dealing in laptops here, they cost about half what they do in the Czech Republic, especially the used ones. I even sent a few home to Bohemia to sell. I particularly liked one of them (IBM Thinkpad PIII-500MHz), so I decided to keep it. After a while the battery started playing up, so I looked on www.ibm.com to see what I could do about it. From the serial number I found out that the laptop still has two years of warranty left! I cheered, but it wore off when I found out that the warranty on the battery is one year and that had expired about 14 days ago... Damn. Still, since I'd already noticed that \"the customer is king\" applies here without limits, I called the IBM help line. (Every company here has a free help line where anybody can call to say, for instance, that their coffee maker doesn't work and they'll advise them that they have to plug it in.) I was hoping I'd somehow talk them round about the battery. So I call them and complain about what's going on with the battery and that it's been going on for several weeks. He only asked about the serial number and then says that unfortunately the battery is already out of warranty. And me, terribly crestfallen again, asking what we can do about it, and he says he'll ask his boss. In a moment he came back and straight away asked me for the address where he could send the battery. All I had to do was send the old battery back, and only after the new one had arrived. And IBM even paid the postage and the postman came to pick it up at my home. Later I found out that the battery costs about $190 (7600 CZK)….

Story three - Casio watch
I was doing something in the flat and so as not to smash up my watch, I stuck it in my pocket. When I took it out again, it looked smashed up. Something kept blinking there, nothing could be pressed, just a disaster. I didn't have time to deal with it, I just used the hands and when I needed the date, I waited until it blinked up. (Lately I somehow don't have time for anything, so for instance the poor car I drive is now more of a mobile dustbin...Pápa, does that remind you of anything? :) ) So one day I finally decided I had to do something about that watch. I went to www.casio.com and using the watch's serial number I found the manual for it, and in it there was something about demo mode, which is something that blinks in the shop to attract attention. So I turned it off and the watch is like new! :)

Internet story four and last: Driving directions
To this day I haven't come up with a decent Czech equivalent of this heading, basically it means \"instructions for how to get somewhere by carJ\", so I hereby announce a competition for the best translation, the winner will receive a genuine wooden lid from a crate of rare vintage wine with a wine cellar burnt into it. The standard of the entries will be judged by an impartial \"jury\" made up of the following judges: jkoran@STARSINC.COM, kocourkov@starsinc.com, jan.koran@STARSINC.COM, honzik@STARSINC.COM, koran@STARSINC.COM, korus@STARSINC.COM, kori@STARSINC.COM. Bribes to the individual judges can be sent directly to their listed email addresses:) When I moved here, I did remember a few things from last year, but I still wanted to buy a map. When I found out how much it costs, though, it worked out that it's cheaper to drive around lost for six and a half hours than to buy one:) Later on I found the driving directions section at www.mapquest.com. I didn't really believe in it, so I typed in Jeff's boat as the starting address and as the destination the house of Jeff's sister, who we were supposed to drive to and who lives almost 1000 km away. To my amazement out came a set of instructions so detailed that they even included things like which lane to stay in on the motorway on-ramp, what would be written on the sign, exact figures on how far each turn-off is from the previous one, honestly, even a blind idiot could get there following that. Ever since then, whenever I drive somewhere, I print this out beforehand and that's it. You've got it on the steering wheel and you find your way without any trouble and it works perfectly even in the city centre and in the most out-of-the-way little streets. And one more for seconds, this time something to please the Czechs: as one of the documents for getting a work permit I needed confirmation from my uni that I'd successfully got my degree there, in English of course. I was expecting big trouble with that, because squeezing something out of the School of Economics, and from 8000 km away at that, looked like a horror story. Still, I tried the method I'd use here. I went to www.vse.cz, found a few email addresses and sent out pleading mails. My mail eventually got to the right place and the \"Transcript of university degrees\" is already lying on the desk at the study department waiting to be picked up, and surprisingly for free, within two days and above all in English!!!

Originally I lived at Jeff's on the ship, on the seventh floor, right above the mess hall. My own cabin, a hot meal three times a day, a shower, TV, the works. For free. Sadly, that obviously couldn't last forever. Then we lived at the Fishmans', except they acted like slave drivers and it drove them nuts that I wouldn't put up with it, so they basically kicked us out. Thank God, or rather thank Nature for that, because right after a free room turned up at Joe's. It's a huge Victorian-style flat from the turn of the century. Given the current totally insane housing prices in San Francisco, most people can't afford a flat of their own, so they share flats with several other people. Well, that's our case too. It's a five-bedroom and there are four of us. The price per room, like I said, $575… When we moved in, the whole flat was basically a disgusting cave. I couldn't stand that, so we had to, in chronological order: Remove a 2cm thick layer of mould from under the fridge and off the wall behind the fridge. Paint the kitchen Wash the fridge and throw out everything older than 8 months Scrub the microwave clean of an egg that had exploded there the Christmas before last Paint the room, plaster all 187 holes in the wall Clean the carpet Replace the carpet after I found out that you can't clean a carpet on which somebody dismantled a motorbike engine a few years ago. Paint the hallway (Jeff convinced me that the wooden trim has to get white semi-gloss, the wood panelling white gloss, the rest of the walls white matte and the rough ceiling has to be sprayed. So that's what we did, and pretty much without any help from the other flatmates. Now I'm just waiting to see whether they'll at least bother to chip in for the paint. Altogether it cost about 240 dollars. Build a bookcase out of wine crates from the winemaker Bring over a couch on long-term loan from Alex Fix a broken fancy lamp I found at the winemaker's, thrown out Put together a computer out of parts: a write-off computer from the winemaker, an old monitor from Jeff, a write-off keyboard from work, a mouse left over from one laptop, a monitor stand left over from another laptop, a modem somebody gave me. Fix a second lamp we found in the closet Mount a second-hand phone on the wall A blanket from a clearance sale, a sheet borrowed from the ship. Get over the outrage that, after I'd painstakingly borrowed a truck and hauled in enough carpet for the whole flat, my dear flatmates decided they didn't want carpet in the hallway after all. Basically the situation was that nobody had laid a finger on anything here for the last ten years and I was trying to rescue the place. By the way, I got that carpet from the winemaker, who's got a house the size of a barn and was having his carpets replaced. When I got there, there were two piles of carpet and not even he could tell which was the pile of old ones and which the new ones. That's the kind of shape the carpet I got from him was in. Architecture At first glance you wouldn't think so, but the houses here look completely different. Practically nowhere in America are there brick or stone or otherwise masonry houses. They claim it's because of earthquakes, but I rather suspect them of laziness. The thing is, everything here is single-use, either paper or plastic, so that's how they build the houses too. Hardly anybody has china plates at home, but everybody's got a pile of paper ones, plastic in the better case, but those don't get used much, because who'd want to stick them in the dishwasher, right. A paper one just gets thrown away. Same with mugs, either a paper cup or plastic. Well, and it's the same story with the houses. A wooden frame and plasterboard. In the better case two layers of plasterboard with insulation in between. The advantage is that when you want to hang a picture, you just hammer a nail in. The disadvantage is that if you take too long a nail, the nail flies through the "wall" out onto the street:) When you want to put up a shelf, say, you have to call in a guy with perfect pitch ("Just like some are heart guys and good dowsers, we with perfect pitch are good fireplace guys!"). The guy with perfect pitch takes a special little hammer and starts tapping the wall with his ear cocked. He looks terribly serious and focused while doing it, usually with his tongue sticking out a bit. At some point he lets out a cheer and marks a spot on the wall with a pencil. With a bit of luck he's hit the spot where the wooden frame runs. You can then attach the shelf to that. This obviously doesn't apply to skyscrapers, there it's steel instead of wood and glass instead of plasterboard. As for the layout of the buildings in the city, it splits into two parts. Downtown (that is, the centre), that's about 1 square km of skyscrapers. The rest of the city, that is, roughly the size of Central Bohemia, is nothing but single-storey! buildings. If they're residential houses, they look quite nice. If it's a building with another purpose (a company, a shop...), in the vast majority of cases it looks like a garage. I asked why and was told that beauty doesn't make money... They're single-storey because they've got plenty of space (or rather, they had...) and also because you can't build plasterboard upwards. Luckily San Francisco is a bit of an exception, but somewhere like Los Angeles is absolutely revolting, the whole thing looks like one big industrial zone. (with the exception (I originally wrote 'exeption', but then it hit me that teachers will probably be reading this too:))) So the only exceptions are posh neighbourhoods like Manhattan Beach or Beverly Hills or Hollywood Hills, which is about 5 percent of the population... Dotcommers (read dot-com-ers) When I got here and talked to people about what I'm doing here, I was surprised by how welcoming they were. Everybody said there are loads of opportunities here and that this city now belongs to the "dotcommers". For ages I had no idea what that was supposed to be, until it finally hit me. It was fairly obvious that it means people who have something to do with computers and the Internet. A website address in the Czech Republic usually ends with something.cz, read "something dot cz". Here the address usually ends with something.com, read "something dot com". So that's why they're called dotcommers:)

So that nobody gets the wrong impression that I only have cheerful adventures here, this time I'll mix the cheerful ones with the not-so-cheerful ones. First comes a clickable table of contents that'll take you to the individual stories, then the stories and now and then a related picture. You'll find loads of pictures in the Photo albums section.

When from December to February the temperature never dropped below fifteen degrees, was mostly twenty and sometimes even twenty-five, it looked like we could look forward to nothing but better weather. Sure, at the start the locals claimed it can rain here every day in winter, but this year it only rained a couple of times.
What a letdown, mid-March came, news started arriving from back home about how the hard winter was retreating, and for us the cruel times began. The fact that a cold wind started blowing and it was around 10–15 degrees wouldn't have been so bad. The fact that at night it's suddenly 5–8 degrees wouldn't have been so terrible either, if only it were somewhere other than California:
a:) The walls here are basically just thicker paper (good old cardboard), so the outside temperature makes itself felt indoors within about ten minutes.
b:) The nearest and only heater in this five-bedroom place is three rooms away (about 15 metres) and has absolutely no effect on the temperature in the room where we sleep:(...
I'm freezing here like a sable's turd, at night I wear overalls with pyjamas over them plus thick socks, and in the morning I have to talk myself into it like crazy just to stick my nose out. Luckily, if I don't talk myself into it, not much happens.

The moment I was hired, the company immediately hired a bunch of lawyers to sort out my work permit. Given what the lawyers charged for it, it looked like I'd have it the next morning, along with a green card and tea thrown in. Fat chance! It took them almost two months to put all the papers together and send it off to the relevant office. And it's been sitting at that office ever since and nothing's moving. If this were back home, I'd just go, take a suitably thick envelope and have a visa tomorrow. I'm not saying it's a good system, but it works. Here, on the other hand, everybody's terribly honest and incorruptible (haha) and I've been waiting half a year for one lousy piece of paper. What's worse is that as an external consultant I could only work up to a certain amount of money. Luckily the corporation consists of eleven companies, so I sort of worked for each of them separately, which stretched the time out eleven times over. Except about a month ago I used up all the limits and I'm in ... Kocourkov.
Not only are they not paying me now, because legally they can't, but my tourist visa is slowly running out too. (The 6 months expire roughly tomorrow.) So, while waiting for the work visa, I was forced to apply for an extension of the tourist visa. So I called the Immigration Office to ask how to go about it. I'd already downloaded the form off the Internet, so I just asked what reasons I should write down for why I want to stay longer. I say I'll write that the work permit is just dragging on and I'm waiting for it. The lady was horrified (she works at immigration!) and tells me not to write that under any circumstances, that I should write something like it's beautiful here, that I want to travel some more and visit relatives in Colorado and so on (Kocourkov, basically), that I should just make something up. Well, she didn't have to tell me twice, did she. I made up such a touching story for them that I'm afraid they might deliver the extension in person:).
So now I'm waiting for two visas at once that are mutually exclusive, and from tomorrow I'm basically a half-illegal resident...
The only thing that cheered me up in my sorrow, when we were at an Irish pub for the regular meet-up of Czech youth living in an American city, is that the vast majority of Czechs around here have this half-illegal status and some have had it for several years. Some of them have even been back home a few times in the meantime.
I've got a feeling the first thing I'll get will be a green card from the lottery I entered last autumn. The American government puts about 200,000 green cards into the lottery every year and I've personally met several people who won one.
The more cheerful part of this story is that at work they pay all my expenses and once the visa comes through I'll get a „Welcome check“ for a decent sum... And the winemaker pays me the same as always.

So this one's funny-not-funny:
Jeff goes to acting classes (that's a bit of a fad here, everybody goes to some kind of class, African drumming, Thai dancing, Indian yoga and so on) and at one of those classes everybody was supposed to tell some story from their childhood when their parents made them do something pointless. And because Jeff is an old joker, he told the following story:

When I was little, about 11, we lived in a house that had a well in the cellar. There was a pump and a sensor in that well. The sensor switched the pump on the moment the water reached a certain level.
One day my mom decided she couldn't stand the feeling that our family's happiness depended on whether the pump switched on and pumped the water out, or didn't switch on and flooded the house. Which she announced to my dad. Because my dad (careful, we're talking about Jeff's dad) is a man of action (as proven by his decision to kill off all the grass in front of the house so it wouldn't have to be mowed), he decided decisively in this case too: „I'll order dirt, Jeff will fill it in!“ The kind and rationally thinking reader surely thinks we're talking about the well. Not at all, we're talking about the CELLAR AND the GARAGE at the same time!
Dad really did order 8 truckloads of dirt and Jeff spent a month and a half of his summer holidays at the age of eleven shovelling dirt into the cellar! Anyone who has ever shovelled dirt through that little cellar window surely knows you can't just keep shovelling forever, you have to run down into the cellar every few minutes and shift the dirt over to the other end of the room...
When I'd heard him out about the dirt (the story about the dirt, that is), I laughed so hard I was falling off the bar stool (luckily the bars here have a little catching rail:). I was thinking what a great one Jeff had pulled on them again. He wasn't laughing much, so I just wanted to make sure he'd been messing with them. With a deadly serious face he assured me it was true down to the last detail... Insane...
I once read in 100+1 foreign curiosities from 1968 about a prison somewhere in the USA where the prisoners have a pile of dirt the size of a seven-storey apartment block and they cart it with wheelbarrows and shovels to the other end of the prison yard. When they're done, they cart it back again. Back then that struck me as such despair that I thought I'd rather slit my wrists with that shovel. And now this story from the lives of people I all know personally and well...
I'd finish with a quote that came to my mind as an example of a hopelessly desperate situation:
“So one day I'm walking through the woods and suddenly a bell falls down in front of me. (note: from the airship of the smuggler Count Zeppelin). An ordinary bicycle bell. And right then the bushes part and there are the customs officers. „So where did you get that bell?“ they say. „You're not going to tell us it fell from the sky“ they say. Well, what was I supposed to say. They accused me of being the smuggler Gétch known as Rainwater and slapped me with twenty years for smuggling bells into Poland.

When I sent out the last batch of stories, I attached a map of my network containing both the topology and the addresses of some of my servers. Right after that some hacker from the Czech Republic tried to break into the network! (hacker - a person who tries to break into somebody else's computer network and destroy whatever they come across. Why do they do it? Beats me. Why do taggers wreck historical buildings?) Luckily I have a firewall everywhere (a little box for $1000 (40,000 CZK), made to fend off hacker attacks), so he didn't get anywhere. Still, it made me furious and I sat over the list of people I'd sent it to and gradually suspected everyone including granny Mařenka (sorry, granny:)) It came out of it that it probably wasn't any of them and that somebody must have intercepted the mail and read it on the way. For a few weeks I had a nice case of paranoia that some hacker would eventually manage it and I'd be in deep trouble. It made me lock the whole system down even more and learn even more about security. I wanted to send an official complaint to the admin of the network the attack came from, but I had too much other work.
A couple of weeks later I'm listening to Czech Radio Radiožurnál over the Internet at work and suddenly a mail pings that somebody is trying to hack my server again (I set up an alarm for that). I look at it and suddenly it hit me! The address the hacker was trying to get at me from is the same as the address of that radio station! I looked into it further and found out that when I listen to that radio over the Internet and the connection drops, the „transmitter“ tries to re-establish the connection and the firewall considers that a hacker attack, completely mistakenly of course... So a false alarm right from the very beginning...
Well, in my defence I have to say that since then somebody has genuinely tried hacking several times, but it was always from the USA and it was always fended off.

I always thought plants were pretty clever, because they know when it's May and they're supposed to bloom and then they know when it's July and they're supposed to bear fruit. That's nonsense. When I drove to the hospital down in the desert sometime in February, they were selling strawberries picked that day. Then once in San Francisco I even had to pull over in the city, because I couldn't believe it and I went to pick myself an orange. Just like that, on the street (well, on an orange tree:)). I've still got it put away.
Because I'm a common fruitarian, I live like a king here, because you can always buy fresh apples, grapes, strawberries, nectarines and so on. True, a kilo of apples costs 90 CZK a kilo and more, nectarines sometimes up to 220 CZK, but what can you do. A stupid roll with salami costs at least two hundred too. (sure, they call it a sandwich and there's thirty decagrams of salami in it, but it's still just a roll with salami)

As I've said before, one of those hospitals is in the desert in southeastern California. It's about a 3-hour drive from the nearest airport in Ontario, it's a little town called Indio, and the hospital is fittingly named OASIS.
When I went there alone for the first time, I had to rent a car at the airport. It was reserved, so I just came in, told them my name (again they looked me over, wondering how come my name is Jana when I'm obviously a guy...) and they had me sign some paper and said the car was out back in the parking lot. So I go there, show the papers and the guy says „That green one or the blue one over there“ So I look in that direction and there stood the two biggest ships I'd ever seen up close in my life. I looked at him again to check whether he was pulling my leg or not and then I figured it didn't matter, they wouldn't let me drive off in anything that wasn't mine anyway. So I stride up to it confidently, like it's totally normal, look inside, a completely new top-of-the-line Buick, everything leather, electric or mahogany, in other words a perfect match for my orange eight-year-old basketball bag, washed-out T-shirt and jeans with holes in them:).
So I climbed in, tried to start it and nothing. Then I look at the rev counter and it shows the engine is running just fine. I open the door... aha, you just can't hear it inside:).
Driving a passenger car the size of a large van is easier than riding a scooter, that's obvious. Besides, I've had a few of these cars already (68) and moving up to something better is always an easy switch.
The only thing that scared me in this country, where you can do up to a year for speeding and pay higher insurance for the rest of your life, was when I was playing with the on-board computer and suddenly I look and the speedometer needle shows 140 miles per hour! That would be about 224 km/h, which is about 120 km/h more than you're allowed to do on the highway here! Well, it turned out I'd just switched the units to kilometres, which I wasn't expecting on an analogue gauge...

Everybody has probably seen Forman's Cuckoo's Nest. When I got to that hospital, I found out it's a regular madhouse for adults. Well, whatever, it doesn't concern me, I'm here for the computer network of the administrative staff, right.
Then they told me some computers are „in the back“. It was already pretty late, about eight in the evening, but I wanted to get it over with so I could clear out in the morning. So I go there, and suddenly I'm looking at a scene from Cuckoo's Nest. Just that glassed-in booth where the duty staff sits and watches the lunatics marching, lying around or otherwise existing through that wired glass. They talk to them over a microphone. So I'm fiddling with the computer there and thinking, thank God I'm behind that glass. Suddenly there's shrieking and squealing and one lunatic is snitching on two others that they're fighting somewhere in a room. Immediately an alarm, they called the orderlies, they came sprinting and somehow calmed it down.
So I finish what I need to and want to leave, and the nurse (a fat ugly black lady) catches me and says they've got one more computer in there. Well, that didn't make me happy, but whatever, I'm paid by the hour, right. So where do you have that computer, lady. I nearly had a stroke, because she pointed at a door at the end of the SPACE FOR THE LUNATICS! I look at her to see whether she hasn't got enough of her own jokes and is now making them at my expense, but no. She just warned me that the patients have a habit of catching hold of new people. I gathered up all my courage, tied it into a little bundle and set off. I put on a terribly unapproachable face (at least I thought so) and made it to the door untouched. I was struggling like crazy with that door and it just wouldn't unlock! Damn. Finally I managed it, I barge in and.... Damn, this is one of those rooms with padded walls, floor and ceiling where they put the lunatics to calm down. No trace of a computer, of course. So I backed out in disgrace and weaved my way back through the lunatics to the booth. They must have already considered me one of their own, since nobody grabbed me again and some of them were already watching the TV instead of me (about two of them...)
In the booth they told me the door was in the other wing. The wings are completely symmetrical, so in all the excitement I'd got it mixed up somehow. Luckily none of the staff there spoke English and my Spanish isn't good enough for me to understand whether they were talking about me and what:)).

I made this note as an idea for a story, but even if you killed me, I don't know what it's supposed to mean. So hereby I'm announcing a competition for the best idea for a story titled „Cable in the Desert“, the winner, who either writes the story themselves or lets me write it according to their proposal, will receive a bottle of genuine Californian red Cabernet in the original packaging in a wooden crate. The idea can be a single sentence or a whole story. The winning story will be „published“ on Kocourkov with the author's name engraved in gold.

_Now, after all those years, in 2011, I may have remembered. Back then at Oasis, one of the branches in the desert, a tractor cut through the cable into the building and all of a sudden those 40 people were cut off from the Internet, and therefore from the world and from work..._

Because I like toys, especially the ones I can make money on, I keep buying laptops at auctions and selling them again. I've already sent about 6 of them to the Czech Republic too, to the full satisfaction of their recipients I think, who mostly sell them on again at a solid profit.
When I had ten of those laptops in a 3x4 metre room, it struck me as pretty funny, so I took a picture of them:).

I was deciding what car to buy when I sold my tiny Civic (see below). I was wondering why Americans have huge cars, lately mostly those passenger vans or straight-up off-roaders and all of them automatics, of course. I came up with the following reasons, which in the end led to me buying a Jeep at an auction tomorrow:
- ego
- safety
- it's hard to eat breakfast with a manual gearbox (because everybody works relatively far away, breakfast is mostly eaten in the car)
- when you're sitting on the highway in a regular car with a Jeep in front of you, you see sh... what's going on ahead and then you have to brake at the last moment
- you can earn a full tank in about an hour of work
- when push comes to shove, a big car will drive over a kerb, a dead coyote or a lost mattress
- you can haul a lot of big junk in a big car
- having a bit of fun in proper terrain once in a while is good craic
- on some highways on the way to go skiing they don't let cars through without 4x4 or chains
- I just want to buy myself a toy, so there!

First I have to do a little recap:
November 2000
– I found out I can't buy a mobile phone unless I have a social security number or a California driver's licence
– car insurance is cheaper if you've got a California licence
– I stood in 4 queues one after another at the DMV, paid 12 dollars, passed the eye test, scored 24 points on the rules test (minimum to pass is 24 points)
- I stood in the queue to have the test marked, where they told me I'd passed but they can't give me the licence because I don't have a social security number
December 2000
- I got a confirmation that I can't get a social security number because I don't have proof of employment
- they booked me for the "behind the wheel" test. Waiting time 4-5 weeks
- they threw me out of the "behind the wheel" test because I didn't understand what a "straight back-up" is and thought it meant backing up data, so instead of "reverse in a straight line" I parked at the kerb.
January 2001
- I booked another drive, this time only 3 weeks away
- they threw me out again, this time for being stupid (me)
March 2001
- I booked again, this time at a different DMV. That time I only waited 14 days.
- I passed the test of my driving skills; after 11 years of holding a licence and averaging 50,000 kilometres a year, roughly half of that abroad including the USA, I passed the test with 15, in words fifteen, mistakes, and as usual fifteen mistakes were allowed. (out of roughly 90 manoeuvres graded during the drive)
- since I basically didn't need the licence at all any more (they sold me a phone on a temporary one and my Czech international licence is enough for driving here) I found the whole thing pretty funny and asked the woman where I'd made those fifteen mistakes. With a straight face she asks me whether I studied for the drive and whether I know the definition of a complete stop at a stop sign. (let me point out that during a roughly 15-minute drive we came across exactly 15 stop signs). So I say it's when the wheels of the vehicle stop turning completely. She gave a sarcastic little snicker and said that no, it is not.
So the definition of a complete stop of a vehicle is:
Stopping a vehicle consists of four phases:
phase 1: the wheels stop turning
phase 2: due to inertia the bonnet of the vehicle moves forward and down
phase 3: as a result of the suspension the bonnet comes back up and backwards
phase 4: the car settles completely in all body movements
It's only legal to pull away after phase four... And I thought how careful I was pulling away in phase 3. (without having a clue that any phases even existed:).
The result is that in the end I do have a California driver's licence (on which, by the way, I look like a fried seal) after almost 5 months and dozens of hours in queues. I've already used it once at the bank, because nobody here has an ID card, they use the driver's licence instead.

Since I spend loads of time in the car, even more than back in Bohemia, a few more observations:
If a motorway on-ramp has several lanes, there's usually a row of traffic lights right before the motorway, one for each lane. It works like "Eeny, meeny, miny, moe, now it's your turn, Frank." It just takes turns more or less fairly so that a regular and smooth supply of cars is fed into the rolling stream on the motorway. Something like a ski lift:).
The same thing on a big scale is on the Bay Bridge, which is a roughly 15 km long bridge from San Francisco to Oakland that I have to cross twice a day. (when I'm not travelling somewhere). The upper deck goes one way, the lower deck comes back. You only pay going from Oakland to SF, and there are about 18 lanes there, each with its own toll booth, and behind the booths those 18 narrow down to 5 lanes on the bridge itself. So that people don't argue at the merge, there's again a row of 18 traffic lights doing eeny, meeny, miny, moe:).

One night I'm cruising home from work like this and suddenly I see flashing lights in the distance ahead of me. I instinctively slam on the brakes and glance at the speedo to see whether it's a jail job or just a fine. Then I notice the whole column is slowing down to about twenty. I overtook the lot of them to find out what was going on, whether they weren't just scared of a slow-moving cop car. And they were. And so was I. The cop had his lights on full blast and was weaving across all six lanes back and forth until the tyres squealed. At first I suspected he'd had a few, but when I saw it a couple more times I reckon it's some traffic trick. Any ideas what the trick is? Because I can't think of anything sensible... Maybe some bigwig needed the motorway cleared so he could drive through?

Even though strawberries grow here in January, one of the most popular winter sports is skiing. You drive about 3 hours into the mountains, and according to the brochures the conditions are great. We've been meaning to go there the whole time I've been here, and so far nothing. Hopefully I'll get there now, if I manage to buy that jeep tomorrow:).

Let me break it up again with one not-so-cheerful story. When we moved into this flat, it was a cattle shed that would make anyone want to puke. Joe lived here with Alex (pigs) and Mike, who had nothing in his room but a carpet on which someone had once taken apart a motorbike engine, plus a telly and a sofa.
Bit by bit Káča and I painted the kitchen, got rid of the mould in and behind the fridge, painted the entire hallway including the wooden trims and the floor!, cleaned the carpets, cleared out the junk room, tidied up the balcony, installed new light fittings and so on. I paid for the vast majority of the materials, Jeff chipped in for some too.
The whole time it was just me and Káča doing it, occasionally Jeff would get involved, though he's rarely around since he lives on a boat. And Joe and Alex did sod all. I only heard them moaning now and then that the paint stinks or that I should have bought white white and not whitish white. That the kitchen is too white and it's like being in a hospital. One day I added it all up and found out I'd spent about 11,000 CZK on materials. So I divided it per person and it came out at 47$ per head, which is, let's say, three hours of work max. So I told them that I don't mind having done all the slog myself, but that it seems fair for everyone to pay their share. Well, that caused a storm. That I hadn't consulted them about it, that they hadn't budgeted for it, blah blah. In the end Jeff and Joe nearly got into a fight, because Jeff was of course on my side, it was just awful. It ended with Jeff paying his share and Joe's just to keep the peace, and Alex paid me hers. Káča and I split the rest.
What does that tell us? In my opinion America is full of ungrateful swine. This isn't the only example of that kind of behaviour... Everyone is so terribly focused on themselves that it's absurd. Something like 60-70% of people in San Francisco are single or divorced, because they simply can't live with anyone other than themselves...
And while we're on the subject of housing, not only do we pay 575 $ for one room 3x4, but they also recently raised the price of gas and electricity by a hundred percent, so the last bill was 372$ in arrears and the estimated monthly payment from now on is about 150$. Which brings me to another story:

Because a few years ago the Californian government decided to break up the monopoly on electricity and gas supply, it sold all the power plants to private owners. At the same time, though, so that it wouldn't be too much of a shock, it introduced regulated energy prices. The result? The owners of the power plants were pushed by the price of electricity to cut costs to the maximum, i.e. to stop investing. The consequence? Over the last ten years energy consumption has doubled, but not a single new power plant has been built. So around January this year the whole circus started. For example, the power company announces in the morning that at noon today the electricity supply will be cut off in such and such areas for three hours. On a working day, all the companies without power. Sometimes of course they don't even manage to announce it and it just goes out. This is happening all over California. I thought that once the heating season was over it'd be fine, but I was wrong, because the biggest electricity consumption here is in the summer, when every company and household has the air conditioning on full blast... So there's more fun to come.

During the week Káča looks after Lily (see the photos Lily&co), who's two and is an absolute riot. Since Andrea only stopped breastfeeding her recently, she's still hunting for a boob:). When she went for Káča's boob, that was easy to understand, but once when we were out for a walk, Lily ordered me to lie down on the grass (she can do that, she always commands "You head down", i.e. "You, head on the ground":)) and then she started climbing onto my t-shirt looking for a boob (she calls it booboo). She found some raised mole and tried to suck on it, as this photo proves.
Then Káča apparently caught her once more sucking on a Barbie's boob and cursing that nothing was coming out.
At weekends Káča looks after a one-year-old girl and once she's bathing her and says to her "Now we will wash your pussy", because the poor thing thought pussy was the kiddie word for a fanny. In reality she was saying something like "Come on, let's wash that cunt of yours":), because pussy is a pretty rude term for the ladies' equipment:). Luckily nobody heard it:).

The whole beauty of an auction is that they have several hundred to a thousand items that they simply have to sell that day no matter what. And it all depends on how many people turn up and how much money they have. Usually you can get everything unbelievably cheap, because there's more stuff than there are buyers. It works like this: they start at some ridiculous price that anyone would pay, and people keep bidding up and up and the interested parties drop out until there's one left.
By now I'm quite a seasoned auction expert. It started when Martin and I bought a few cars at an auction last year and sold them at a decent profit (see the USA99 diary). This year Jeff and I also snapped up a few cars at an auction.
But what's far more interesting are computer auctions. Because thousands of Internet companies have set up here over the last few years, rents have shot up insanely and loads of those companies are now going bust. And their assets get sold at auction. So I went to an auction because I needed some new laptops for business, and it ended with me buying 5 laptops, 17 computers, 16 monitors, a digital camera and some other junk, because so few people turned up that day compared to the number of items for sale that it was going for about a third of the real price. I flogged the computers and monitors that same day to one of the hospitals I work for, I'm gradually selling off the laptops and the digicam is my new toy.
The hospital liked those computers so much that it's now part of my job to go to auctions and get other hospitals what they need.
Today I was at a car auction again, because I needed a car for myself. I bought a motorbike. The cars they had there were rubbish. Well, I was probably too picky, but I figure that given how much time I spend in the car I should get something that suits me... Well, so I've got a Yamaha 1100cc, four-cylinder, a beast of a bike. I'd wanted one for ages and this one was so cheap I just couldn't resist. I've been looking for a helmet and gloves and it looks like they'll cost me nearly more than the bike:).

One of my servers is used to run the central accounting for all those hospitals in the corporation. It works so that every accountant connects to it remotely over the Internet and processes the data directly on that server. That way everything is centralised and everyone has the freshest figures.
And when I was getting this system up and running, something happened that I had to laugh at. A woman from San José (about 90km from my office) calls me saying the accounting won't print for her. So I'm looking at what's going on on the server (BTW it's Citrix) and just then my mobile rings. So I pick it up and it was a different woman, from the hospital out in the desert (about 800km from me), saying that completely unfamiliar pages are coming out of her printer! The computer in San Jose was simply printing data from the server in San Francisco on a printer in Indio:))))
It took me about two weeks to sort out all the problems of all the dim accountants in all the locations and I grew about a kilometre of grey hair over it, I even dreamed about it at night, but it seems to be fine now.

Without really realising it, I'm currently living in one of the most seismically active places on the globe. In 1989 there was an earthquake here of about 7.5 on the Richter scale, which I think only goes up to 9. Loads of buildings came down, the Bay Bridge, which has two decks, cracked badly and in one spot the upper deck even fell onto the lower one. A few cars dropped a level down, a few of them even fell into the sea. I knew all that (from Káča, who's been round all the museums in town with Lily), but I still basically thought of it as something far away, kind of like when you're watching the news on TV and between Zeman and the football they show you cracked buildings in Bangladesh. (now it looks like I'm about to tell you how I lived through an earthquake, but nooope)
So one day we're sitting at lunch at work and Mary started telling us what it was like back in '89. She was telling us how she was in the subway at the time and how they had to clear it out, how she helped some half-crazed pregnant woman with her bags, she acted out how it shakes you and there's nothing you can do, how she climbed out of the subway and saw all those cracked buildings and roads, skyscrapers with no glass, broken glass everywhere and smashed-up cars, and I was totally hanging on her every word and living it like crazy. At that moment it hit me how close to it I actually live and that it can come any time. You'd think that with science being so advanced you could predict it by now, but seismologists apparently say that the only thing you can predict is that the further we are from the last earthquake, the closer we are to the next one. I'm not scared of it, even that huge earthquake in '89 only killed a few people, but in my head it's moved from the "disaster novel" category into the "everyday danger" category, kind of like a car crash or something.

As I've already mentioned, there's a fairly big Czech community here. Someone even told me that thirty thousand Czechs live in the Bay Area (SF and the wider surroundings). Dunno. Well, there are definitely tens of thousands of Russkies living here, because I run into them all the time. They think nobody understands that Slavic language of theirs and I do :).
Every Tuesday the Czechs meet up in an Irish pub and then there's one proper Czech pub here with svíčková and stuff.
You're always subconsciously looking for signs of Czechia abroad, so I found a Věra Bílá CD in a music shop, lots of people know Kundera, Hrabal, Dvořák and so on. At the video rental place we gradually found Closely Watched Trains, Cutting It Short and Kolya. So one time we're watching Kolya, laughing like idiots, enjoying that feeling of home and all that, then it ended and Káča says "Hey, that scene where Louka was playing in America and that black guy was clapping with those enormous hands...." Those mangy bastards just cut it out!!!! (Okay, that bit was me...) I guess the idiots thought it was racist or something. They've just got insane freedom here.

It started because we needed to get rid of one of the cars, so we stuck a for sale sign on it and parked it by the road. In the end I sold it to some black guy who then kept calling me three times a day for another month saying he wanted some money back.
The day after I sold that car some guys called me saying they wanted it. I told them it was already gone and they asked if I had anything else. Since it was right after Jeff and I had agreed that I should sell my Civic, I offered them that. The reason we agreed to sell it, even though it was a trouble-free car, was that for driving a car without insurance here you can get 2 years without a licence and a $3000 fine. And since a car has to be insured within 30 days of buying it, otherwise you're screwed, and I'd already had it for 3 months, it was basically impossible to insure it.
The guys came to look at it about a week later. They were two Irishmen who'd just come over for a short while to make a pile of money and then clear off home like me, they were a laugh, so I told them I could flog it to them for what it cost me (which was pretty much nothing) just to get rid of it. And they said they'd come for it tomorrow at ten in the morning with the money.
So in the morning I'm waiting and nothing. In the end they showed up at three and I immediately realised why. The evening before had been St Patrick's Day, which is the Irish patron saint, so the lads got absolutely plastered and of course couldn't get up in the morning. They were still wobbling about at three :). So I said goodbye to the Civic, in which I did about 10,000 kilometres in 3 months, which got us to Las Vegas and back for New Year's Eve no problem and which drank about 4 times less than a normal American car. Since then I've been driving Jeff's sports car, a Chevrolet Monte Carlo Super Sport, which has an engine like a decent Russian bus and drinks like a German coach tour. Just to be safe I never worked out the fuel consumption, but with the Civic I filled up once a week for $20, with this thing I drive the same and fill up every other day for $35 :(.

Laura is Jeff's cousin, whom I know from when we met her, her husband Steve and daughter Alana in Rome about four years ago. We spent Christmas at their place and what's typical for that family, the biggest room in the house is the bar. A proper long wooden bar counter, glasses hanging from the ceiling and so on. Laura and Steve are lawyers who earn insane money, but their main purpose in life is one endless party. They just booze and booze and then they go off somewhere in the world so they can booze. Alana is about 9 now, but she's already been through so many bars and pubs and parties with her parents that I'm a complete amateur next to her. They always leave her to sleep in some corner and that's that.
So this Laura, with Steve and Alana, were in San Francisco last weekend visiting Laura's Australian friend Rachel. I'll skip the minor details like the fact that Laura set Jeff up with Rachel so now they're going out (that's the fifth woman just in the time I've known him...), that the tour of San Francisco consisted of exactly seven bars and that Laura brutally fell asleep in the bar of a luxury five-star hotel, and get to the unbelievable story that Laura and Rachel pieced together (because each of them only remembered parts of it).
The two of them know each other from one of those ocean liners that load up a thousand tourists in one port (say Istanbul), cruise the seas with them for 14 days, the tourists booze in the bars, swim in the pools and so on, and then they dock in another port (say Rome) and dump the tourists there. And on this liner Laura and Rachel got nicely hammered one time and that's how they met.
So Laura was telling the story of how one time on that ship she was dragging Laura out of the bar because Laura couldn't walk any more. Except Rachel is about half her size, so halfway through she gave up and left Laura lying on the carpet in the corridor. Laura filled in what she remembers, namely that after a while Alana was coming back from the games room and didn't have her keys. She sees her mum sleeping on the floor, so she lay down next to her and fell asleep.
Steven put the cherry on top by filling in the last part of the story. He'd been boozing with some German in the casino and when they were closing up he couldn't walk either. So there he is, half dead, being dragged to the cabin by the German and the barman, and suddenly Steve says "Hey, my wife and daughter are lying over there, can you load them up too?"
All three of them were incredibly happy that they'd finally managed to put the story together after all these years, because each of them was missing a piece...

It'll be clearest from the following comparison. When an American wants to say that something is beautiful (a woman, a car, anything...) the strongest comparison is:
"You look like a million bucks" = "You look like a million dollars"
Do I need to add anything? Like the fact that the most common topic of conversation revolves around money, that a girl's first question to a potential lover is how much he earns, that it's totally normal to talk about a job as an "$80,000 job", i.e. a job for $80,000 a year, instead of describing the work....
Another pretty common saying is "Everything has a price", meaning more or less that everything is for sale.
When I was looking for work and dealing with agencies, they don't talk about getting a job, but rather about "offering a product (me and my skills) to a potential buyer (the employer) for the highest possible price (my salary) determined by supply and demand in the given market..." You end up feeling a bit like a banana at the market...
They've also somehow forgotten here that people have a job as something that's supposed to financially secure their life. Here everyone lives to get that "dream job" and earn that insane pile of money, but then they've got no time left to enjoy that money, because the dream job is 24x7 (24 hours a day, seven days a week, quite a common phrase here)

I try to observe how my English is developing now and then, but mostly I have absolutely no time for it. I just communicate, advise people on the phone and don't even realise it's in English. So I sort of thought I was speaking American by now. The other day, though, I happened to hear my voice on someone's answering machine and that was a blow. Plain old Czenglish, textbook stuff. Czech r all over the place, I don't roll a hot potato around my mouth at all and I don't stick my tongue out for "th"... So that hurt, but I guess I don't have the time or energy to do anything about it. I can say whatever I need and everyone understands me no problem and I understand them.
The funny thing is only when I have to make myself understood to some Mexican. There are tons of them living here, so I need it all the time. So for example I'm talking to a Mexican whose English is about at my level, meaning he has no trouble communicating with an American, but the two of us can't understand each other at all. So I deduced that my Czenglish is just as far from Amerenglish as his Mexenglish, only in a different direction, so the gap between my Czenglish and his Mexenglish is enormous :)))

I found another interesting expression when Jeff was telling me the other day how he'd been on a training course in some small town and it was a total dry town. It means you can't get anything to drink there, because the one bar they've got closed at ten :).

I've already written here once about Alex, how she bagged a guy at a bus stop in a way that most guys back home wouldn't be able to pull off. I've had a few long conversations with her about the differences between men and women and it looks like she wants to prove to herself and to the whole world that women can do absolutely everything just like men (like how women would make totally awesome car mechanics if men let them...). When she got herself a skateboard, I thought it was funny. But when she took up the lifestyle of a true Casanova and brings home a new bloke for the night every week. At first I naively thought maybe they just "chat", but after I ran into the guy at two in the morning in the bathroom wearing her dressing gown, and then a little later her in the very same dressing gown, I don't think that any more. Káča still does...

The other day I was in one of those hospitals and at lunch a woman sat down with us with a badge on her shirt saying "Dietitian" or something like that. She'd just been hired and her job consists of putting together menus for kids so they eat healthily. She immediately started feeding us her drivel, like how from the age of two a person doesn't need any fat in their diet at all and that's why it makes no sense to drink anything but fat-free milk (that's the murky water they sell here and proudly call milk. It tastes like milk and water 1:12).
What got me the most was when she picked up a hamburger, which happened to be that day's lunch! and with a hugely disgusted look pulled the slice of cheese out of it and threw it on the tray, saying that these full-fat cheeses are killers. Then she happily took a bite of that revolting fried hamburger, which was practically dripping with burnt grease, and wolfed the whole thing down :).
Kocourkov, plain and simple.

Just so you don't think Jeff is only some nice uncle who as a kid used to chuck dirt into the cellar, let me retell you a story from his wilder days. So he's sitting in a bar with his buddy Brion, and the place is full of two camps of athletes after a match, let's call them Sparta fans and Slavia fans for simplicity. Jeff and Brion were sitting at the bar in the middle, Sparta fans at the tables on the left, Slavia fans on the right. Everybody was drinking beer out of bottles, now and then you'd hear Spartaaa, now and then Slaviaaa, so a slightly tense atmosphere. Well, so it wouldn't be so boring, Brion says "Watch this" and discreetly hurled a beer bottle towards the Slavia lot, so that it shattered against the wall behind their backs. They bristled up right away and Jeff caught on to the situation and hurled a bottle at the Sparta guys' wall. Then all it took was one more at the Slavia lot and they picked it up themselves and the battle kicked off full on. Before long, of course, the flashing lights showed up and eleven cop cars besieged the pub and in they charged with batons. Brion pulled out his cop badge, which he'd found somewhere up in the attic, and so they were the only ones who got out of that brawl unscathed, and all the Slavia and Sparta fans spent the night in the city lockup.
(By the way, Brion is currently the husband of Jeff's sister Janice, the one we spent Thanksgiving with, and they're getting divorced... Which has nothing to do with this story, which happened something like 15 years ago.)

The last story for today is about a trip to Calistoga last Monday and Tuesday. Since Andrea, who doesn't go to work but to school (she's 42, but that's pretty common around here), had Monday and Tuesday off, she took her sister, Káča and Lily on a trip to the Calistoga spa in the wine region about 100km northeast of SF. She invited me too, saying Káča would have her own room anyway. Given that my back was hurting like hell right then and exercise wasn't helping, I announced at work that I'd be working from Calistoga for two days (I can do most of my work over the Internet and by phone anyway) and off I went after them.
We had a beautiful room with a bar and the hotel had four thermal pools. One really hot one with jets, then a bigger, less hot one, then a small kiddie splash pool and a normal swimming pool.
Of course I pretty much blew off the work and enjoyed the hot pools and the sunshine. Although it's still cold in San Francisco, in Calistoga it was hot as hell. That's probably why they grow the wine in Calistoga and not in SF :). By the way, Hemingway apparently once wrote that the coldest winter he ever experienced was a summer in San Francisco.
The peak of all the heating procedures was when I signed up for a mud bath! Sure, it cost $48, but given that everything else was free, I swallowed it. It was a tub full of something that very strikingly resembled fresh cow dung. When I stuck my foot in it, it was clear it couldn't be dung, because not even a cow with a fever could produce something that hot. The attendant asked me how the temperature was and I bravely said it was fine. I lowered myself in with my bare butt and wondered how I was going to get it out of my colon afterwards :). Luckily it sealed well. It was a bit embarrassing, but I had to ask him to immortalize my head poking out of the mud.
After fifteen minutes he liberated me from it, I couldn't even breathe anymore. I showered off that muddy suit and he says, on to the next phase. Again he asked about the temperature and me, idiot, again heroically said it was fine. This time it was a whirlpool of hot spring water and after a minute I already felt like a scalded pig. Next to me someone had left a cup of water on the edge of the tub and I stared at it, fighting the urge to drink up after them. After another minute I lost and gulped the ice-cold water down. When the attendant then poured me a new one, it dawned on me that the cup had been for me. I also kept wrestling with the thought of why I was torturing myself here and not getting out, but I told myself that if the people before me had endured it, so would I, and mainly that it would help my back.
After fifteen minutes the attendant freed me again and said I should go sit on that chair over there and catch my breath. So I sat down, he left and I brutally fell asleep. I felt like after the toughest basketball game where I had to play all 2x20 minutes.
After a while (no idea how long) the attendant came back and started talking to me, which woke me up. Apparently the next step was the sauna. When I saw the boiling steam rolling out of there, I had to ask him for another time-out. We chatted a bit about how it's possible that these spas are also full of Russians, I told him how Russians own 90% of the real estate in Karlovy Vary and even got themselves a special direct Moscow–Karlovy Vary flight, and with that I recovered and cooled off a bit. Then I went into the steam, which was a room where the local springs ran over rocks and heated it up that way. Even though it was hellishly hot in there, I forced myself to do a bit of exercise and I think it helped. Whenever it got unbearable, they had this round hole in the glass wall where you could stick your head out. It was a bit reminiscent of a guillotine.
Then he just led me into a dark room full of cubicles with beds, where I wrapped myself in a blanket so I'd supposedly cool down slowly. I was completely wrecked, so I fell asleep. When I woke up, there was nobody there anymore, they'd simply closed up and let me sleep there in peace. So I packed up my camera and glasses and went back to the room, where I fell asleep again. It was only the rampaging Lily who woke me up.
It really did help my back.

The last piece of news, still hot. We've just got back from the Easter party and dinner at the Lilys', there was mutton and it was good, plus there was Pilsner and it was good, even though Andrea had no idea it was a Czech beer.
Over dinner all sorts of stories came up and Cork (Lily's dad) just casually mentioned that he has an invitation upstairs from the English queen to a dinner in Edinburgh, where a new museum is opening that bought a couple of his sculptures. I had to ask again whether I'd heard right, because I reckon most Englishmen would have their left hand chopped off just to be able to go to dinner with the queen. He just nonchalantly repeated that it really is THE English Queen Mother and that he's not going, because he hates planes and time changes.
Nobody paid it any more attention and the conversation turned to how Bush is a moron and how great it is that they live in a country where you're allowed to say it out loud.
I knew Cork was a sculptor, but that he's THE SCULPTOR, I had no idea...